Green Spotted Pufferfish
Posted by Keith Lehman on June 18, 2007
Common Name: Green Spotted Puffer.
Scientific Name: Tetraodon nigroviridis. (Sometimes confused with the Tetraodon fluviatilis.
Family: Tetraodon.
Home: Asia. Sri Lanka to Indonesia and north to China; they inhabit freshwater to brackish coastal estuaries like streams, rivers, and floodplains where they are found singly or in small groups.
Adult Size: 6 inches.
Diet: Crustaceans – mollusks and invertebrates in the wild. Foods for smaller puffers are frozen/freeze-dried krill/plankton, ghost shrimp, glass worms, crickets, worms and small snails (very small, the size of their eye). Snails are essential food to a puffer’s diet, especially when small.
Water Temperature: Tropical, 78-82-degrees Fahrenheit (25-28-degrees Celsius).
Water Chemistry: PH: 7.5 to 8.5, medium to medium hard water okay.
Background and Description:
Green Spotted Pufferfish is a fresh water tropical variety of the pufferfish family found in brackish (marine) water. The expert aquarists suggest that only advanced aquarist/hobbyists have Green Spotted Puffer.
The color is variable depending on age and the origin of the fish. In mature specimens the top and head area is marked with large Brown or Black spots. The spots on the side are smaller and also round in shape. The body color between spots is a beautiful Emerald Green color which makes a nice contrast to the dark spots. The bright green color is subdued in younger specimens. The fins are semi-transparent with a slight yellow tint.
The most recognizable trait of the Puffer is its’ ability to inflate a sac area of the gut or air to inflate themselves into the shape of a ball. However, the fresh water species does not appear to do this. While the “experts” claim that they should be kept only by “advanced” aquarists, most of those who breed and keep these fresh water variety find that the family of Puffers are not “demanding” in their care. Many of the brackish or seawater (marine) variety can be acclimated to fresh water, even hard and alkaline. The Green puffer becomes attached to its owner and becomes friendlier as it gets used to its new surrounding after you have introduced him in your tank. Eventually, the Puffer will get excited as you approach its tank. The tank setup should contain plants and rock/structure, as well as open areas for swimming. Most aquarists suggest that the Puffer be kept alone or with other fish the same size.
The Puffer is an egg layer and lays their eggs on rock surfaces. The male will protect the brood and use his body to cover the eggs. The eggs hatch in about a week and the male will transfer the tadpole like fry to shallow pits and continue to guard them. The fry can be hard to raise and feeding them can be difficult, you should try a variety of small food including brine shrimp and observe which type they are eating. The mortality rate on the spawn is usually high.
Puffers will chase each other around the tank, and despite the claim of some aquarists – they are not aggressive, at least the fresh water variety called the Green Spotted Pufferfish. Aquarists have reported they have had guppies in the same tank with no problems. One aquarist wrote that they will eat fresh clam and oyster purchased at the local grocery market. Of course, you cannot put ghost shrimp in the same tank because they are part of their diet.
Their teeth are constantly growing, much like rodent mammals and providing rocks or coral for chewing on will prevent the teeth from overgrowing, unless you want to take the time to file them down. If their teeth get to long they will not be able to eat.
While they can be kept in fresh water, they live longer in brackish water. You can either introduce marine salt with a sg of about 1.005 and 1.010 or use the type of salt recommended for fresh water fish to keep them balanced.
Puffers are sensitive to water conditions and need to be introduced correctly to an aquarium – be sure to use the rule of at least thirty minutes in the bag you purchased them floating in your tank to ensure that the water temperature equalizes. The water temperature mentioned above should be maintained in that range. It prevents stress and disease that may kill or stunt their growth. Puffers live in aquariums for 10 or more years. They grow to about 6-3/4-inches long. They are classified as omnivores.
It is recommended that a 20-gallon tank as a minimum with a well-planted 50 gallon tank being recommended.
Puffers like to swim at the bottom and middle areas of your aquarium.
Kim said
I was wondering why the belly of the green spotted puffer fish changes from blackish grey to white?
Keith said
Kim:
First of all, I would like to apologize for taking so long to answer your question. I am writing here at Kritter Korner as a guest writer and was busy with Lighthouse Patriot Journal and Op-Ed blog at Townhall.com.
There are several species of the fresh water puffer fish that come in various colors – but generally their shape is the same. The Green Spotted Puffer seems to be the most popular at tropical fish stores and our local Wal-Mart, Sturgeon Bay, Door Country Peninsula has them for sale.
As far as the color-changing, this is caused by stress, according to Petfish and other sources, however, I feel the best link is Petfish:
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There you have it – while they tend to be color changing slightly for no apparent reason, do not become concerned until the color remains changed for more than a few hours or as stated above the white belly turn a solid gray. Then follow the steps and procedures at the Petfish website linked. I think they are great fish for the aquarium enthusiast. Have fun and keep us in touch with your experiences. Thanks for your question and taking the time to visit.
Further Research:
Dr. Jungle’s Animal World
All Experts
Kim said
we have green spotted puffer fish. Recently it has started to curl up in a ball and turns dark colors, sometimes it is on the bottom of the tank and sometimes it is on the top. The fish is usually side lying or upside down. I am concerned.. what does this mean?? I tried to get him out of the water and place him in a seperate bowl and then he turned back to his white bellied bright colored complection…i never ended up seperating him because he was back to those colors before i caught him… whats going on??
Keith said
Kim:
Did you try the corrective situations that my links provided?
Is the puffer by itself, and if not what specie is its tankmates?
Environment is important concerning control of stress in all fish, especially puffers. They require a bit more care.
Also, did you say he is in a bowl? It is best, as recommended that they be placed in a 20-gallon aquarium at the minimum. Use artificial vegetation and rock-like accessories.
If the color changing is temporary and during certain short periods, I wouldn’t be too alarmed. You can just observe the puffer and probably figure out any procedures required.
Keep me informed. How long have you had the puffer? Has he exibited any personal contact with you in the form of recognizing you and coming to the side of the tank, et cetera? They are friendly once they get established.
Hope this helps.
David said
My leopard puffer is lying at the bottom of the tanf eyes and fins moving but the boddy isnt
it moves up and down usualy.
Keith said
David:
I wouldn’t worry – puffers will find a comfortable spot and just “hang out” – read my comment entry above about the belly – it gives you a clue if your puffer is “happy” or not.
jason said
i have a green spotted fish and today he started to act a little sluggish and his fins are turning a bright white and his tail fin use to be red and now it looks like a lite pink and looks like its deteriorating
Keith said
Jason:
It may have fin-rot – purchase at your local aquarium supply store or Wal-Mart the appropriate remedy. Also if it looks torn, there may be an aggression problem in your tank. However, what you describe sounds like fin-rot. Keep your filter(s) clean regularly and check your PH/Ammonia levels.
Donna said
Great information above! I have had a green spotted puffer for three months and everything has gone extremely well until recently. It was pretty scary because he was very stressed to the point of losing his ability to swim and his mouth was swollen and pale and he puffed up, his eyes were small and he struggled to “breathe”. It was sad. I ran a sample of tank water to my local fish store but they did not test the water. They were very helpful though and this was the solution: I have a 29 gallon tank. Do 1/3 water changes daily (2-5 gallon buckets) for 5 days. Use water conditioner with aloe vera to remove chlorine from the tap water and to condition the gills. Of course add aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) plus I keep a small tupperware container (with holes in it) containing aquarium salt in the tank held down by a rock. The first water change things improved tremendously and he was back to recognizing me again. He would still not eat, however. Apparently, puffer fish can go up to 10 days without food. Since he eats twice a day I was worried at the second day. One suggestion, on day #3 try to introduce food and if he won’t eat his usual brine shrimp or blood worms, try glass worms or black worms–apparently they are used to put weight back on fish and I think the glass worms can live in the tank for three days or so. GSPs (Green Spotted Puffer)fish are GREAT! So much personality!!
Donna said
Lastly, two questions:
1) Since I don’t have live plants in my brackish aquarium, how much aquarium light time does a green spotted puffer fish need? I was told they need “sleep” time, too!??? Please explain.
2) My local pet store suggested I use nothing but coral in the bottom of the tank. I guess that is for nitrogen dispersion and/or better pH control. Could you better explain this to me?
Thanks!
Keith said
Donna:
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts and your questions …
You do not have to change your water daily – after your tank is totally treated. Do not keep adding tap water – bottled distilled water is available at your local store of $1 a gallon – keep this around for your evaporation periods when you need to add water.
Trying live worms is a great source of protein and may help them get back to being interested in eating. Professional aquarists who keep Puffers say that a trip now and then for raw oysters at the local meat market or something similar, chopped into a blender and fed sparingly is a great diet supplement – be careful not to feed too much at one time – this raw food can increase your bacteria/nitrogen problem quickly.
Thanks to technology, aquarium filters (although costly) is now available with bio-wheels and charcoal filtration all in one – the best of both worlds, so to speak. However, I wouldn’t go to that upgrade until you upgrade your tank to 55 gallons. If you do, you will be afforded the opportunity to add other things to your tank and make it a small sea/pond in your home.
When you say “brackish” – did you add “aquarium salt” or “marine” salt. Aquarium salt in the prescribed quantities is beneficial to fish and keep them healthy. Marine salt is intended to recreate ocean and sea water in nature. If this is the latter (Puffers can gradually be made to become accustomed to marine water, however check out sources as to what salt levels must be maintained. Like coral reef fish, they may have problems with sudden changes or too dense of a salt content. Anyway, when you do, you can add sea creatures that look like plants, but are animals. Or even order a live coral rock. And, coral rock is good for Puffers because they are like mammal rodents (rabbits, squirrels, et cetera) that require them to “gnaw” and grind their teeth down.
And you are right – Puffers do have personalities!
Go down to the library and read about brackish water tanks, marine tanks, plant and animal life that live in them. Aquarist books should be available there – and when you find a favorite book, you can purchase it to keep in your home library for reference.
Your pet store folks sound like they are giving you sound advice.
Remember, when you have brackish water or marine tanks – the water evaporates faster – keep that distilled water around. You also should invest in an aquarium test kit that covers nitrogen, alkaline, PH and other tests in one package. A bit expensive – $10 – $15; however worth it and you won’t have to use it as frequently as you think – once you have the water the way it should be.
In my tanks, I usually created the bottom to where it sloped from back to front – in that way, it was easier to take a power vacuum (or siphon hose setup) to clean any debris or left over food. If you have brackish water, crustaceans are a joy to watch, as well as keep the tank clean because they eat just about 24 hours per day.
As far as lighting – remember where fish live. They receive filtered light at different levels they swim in – and even coral fish who are used to more light than, say, freshwater catfish, light is good for them.
The aquarium light is mostly of human benefit – so we can watch them and enjoy the colors of the tank. Always use fluorescent and grow lamps are not required – in fact, they will promote algae blooms to occur. That is why one never places their aquarium in direct sunlight.
So, use your aquarium light mostly when you want to enjoy their view. Some folks use timers to enact nature’s light – sunlight and then moonlight.
Coral is a good addition to a tank, if your water is marine quality in terms of the level of brackishness. They actually filter the water for their food.
Have fun and let me know what you have done to add to your tank. Do you have only puffers in the tank? Make sure you check the library sources and advice from local pet shop (seems they are professional folks there) to make sure the other wild life introduced is compatible to your Puffers. Enjoy and thanks for participating here at Kritter Korner, home of Kritter Girl. I have enjoyed writing about these things as a guest writer in between publishing my blog.
Best Regards …
Donna said
Thanks for answering my questions and all of your GREAT suggestions! I will keep the distilled water on hand!!
I have only added the aquarium salt and I only have one green spotted puffer fish in the whole 29 gallon tank! He bites on or kills any other fish I have added. He came from a tank at the store with several puffers and he was the only one with fins that did not have any bite marks. Guess that means he was the boss!! Now he is spoiled and I hope he lives 10+ years. Too fun!
Keith said
Donna:
Yes, the little rascals are nippers, aren’t they? But they have been known to live among other fish like Mollies, for some reason. However, when other “nippers” are added, then tend to feel the results of a fish with teeth!
Coral reef fish, of the many species, tend to be territorial, I have found. Most of my fish were added about the same time, so there wasn’t too much of an issue – plus, I had a 55-gallon tank with the terrain and places for getting away from other fish, et cetera that allowed enough room for the fish who wanted to be apart to do so.
I hope your little green rascal lives a long life.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Laura said
Laura:
I have a green puffer fish who dosent seem to eat. I was wondering what the best thing to feed him?
Laura said
Laura:
Since I want the healthiest fish (green puffer) I want to add salt to the water. I don’t know when to add it or what kind to add. Will you help me?
Laura said
Laura:
Hi its me again. I last asked you about adding salt to my tank. Is that nessisary. Also I have a heater I keep it a about 72 (of) is that ok
dani said
i have 2 green spotted puffer fish in a 55 gallon tank. well one is acting all weird, one day it’ll spend most the day on the bottom of the tank and then today he was floating in the midle of the tank with his tail bent next to his body and wouldnt move for about 10min. what would be causing this?
Keith said
Laura:
The natural diet of the Puffer are crustaceans and shellfish; therefore a supplement with normal tropical fish food of dried shrimp or krill – or maybe some minced crab meat (uncooked) would probably make them more eager to eat their meals. However, Puffers have been known not to eat for a couple of days or very little. I have not discovered why, but it does not necessarily mean they are ill or unhappy. The neat thing about Puffers is that you watch their bellies where the white part is. They are sometimes moody and this white may darken or actually change color a bit. This means that something is bothering them; however, I wouldn’t be concerned if it doesn’t last for long periods of time or frequently.
The salt you are referring to is called “Aquarium salt” – different than the marine salt used by those who have seawater creatures to make the water the proper salinity properties required of marine fish. Just follow the directions. It comes in what looks like a milk carton and will last a long time. Just remember that any salt of any properties can build up, so watch your levels by purchasing a salinity tester that looks like floating thermometer if you decide to use the therapeutic aquarium salt. As Kritter Girls says: “Everything in moderation“. Just follow the directions on the carton.
The instrument bulb for testing salinity will have graduations on it so you can gauge this. Puffers live in both freshwater and salt water, but the best way to change this would be a gradual process. Salt water provides more bouyancy, thus the reason why people swim and float better in marine water, and that is what the testing bulb is for. Anyone who sells marine fish will have this instrument. Otherwise, just use the aquarium salt that is actually good for freshwater fish in the prescribed amounts and frequency.
It is not necessary to add the salt, if you don’t want to. There are other natural disease prevention and fish “vitamins” you can add to the water on the market. Stop by the library and I am sure you will find many books for aquarists that will increase your knowledge of keeping an aquarium.
As far as heating – 72-degrees (no matter what some may say) is tops. During my many years I found when I had the heater set higher than that problems occurred more frequently concerning bacterial diseases and the nitrate and ammonia levels from refuse and waste in the tank between cleanings became more of a problem – as well as the increase in algae problems. Also, never keep a tank in direct sunlight, like too close to a window, and if the window is nearby just ensure that there are blinds to filter the light. I have found that 70-degrees constant temperature is ideal in all circumstances concerning tropical fish, unless you are creating a marine (salt) tank bio aquarium, where you want live coral and an imitation of the nature in the coral reefs around the world. Then you push the temperature to at least 72-degrees, but not over 74-degrees. Also, you have to watch the salinity level (salt) more closely for some reef tropical fish because they are sensitive to any sudden or drastic changes in salinity. I have less disease problems with marine fish than freshwater and this may be because of the salt content.
Hopefully I have answered all your questions and thanks for stopping by Kritter Girl’s Kritter Korner.
Best Regards … Keith
Keith said
Dani:
Without observing the particular Puffer that is acting “weird” is difficult. Puffers will move from one “strata” of water space and then to another. I find that it is common for them to tuck their tail. Like I mentioned to others here – watch the belly. If it turns darker or off-color, this means it is not happy – physically or psychologically. I guess this is one of the unique trademarks of this remarkable friend with fins. Inspect his skin and fins to ensure he hasn’t picked up “Ich” or something like that (white spots or change in skin structure (scales in other fish) and any fin rotting going on.
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience with the Puffer.
Michele said
I bought a green spotted puffer fish today. I was told to use Spring water not distilled water. Also I was told a 2 gallon tank filtered, with a heater to keep tank at 80 Deg was good and to add a small bowl of salt that he could swim in, in the bottom of the tank. I am starting to read alot more info now and seeing I think I have too small of a tank. And they told me to feed the fish Krill wich I bough in a bottle its dried or something like that. Now I see their teeth grow like crazy and not sure if this is enough to keeps its teeth filed down. My fish right now is about an inch long. Can someone please tell me what size tank this little guy should actually be in and what other false info I may have gotten today. Thank you so much
Michele
Keith said
Michele:
Thanks, on behalf of Kritter Girl, for stopping by and providing comment …
Spring water/distilled water – either better than tap water.
Who is they? Pet shop, Wal-Mart, PetCo?
The only way to keep its teeth from growing (like rodents, i.e., rabbits) is to either file them down by hand (a real chore, and usually puts the fish in too much of a stress) or as I mentioned in the article – provide coral, rock or something they can keep their teeth ground down.
Krill is fine or any dried shrimp or occasionally some chopped fresh crab meat or whatever; but in between they will munch on regular tropical fish flakes.
Rule of thumb for most fish species (except those like guppies who only grow so big) – the larger the body of water, the larger the fish grows. It’s like Mother Nature tells them they can only be as big as their watery environment.
Two gallon tanks, at least the ones I have seen don’t have much room or an adequate filtration system. I would suggest picking up an aquarist “How To” book at the local library and start reading about ammonia and nitrate levels, recommended filtration systems – and depending how many fish you would like to have in your aquarium – getting at least a 29-gallon tank. Be careful, however, which fish you put in the tank with the little puffer. Some fish like the Gourami is a bit aggressive and if they start nipping the tails of your puffer – it will retaliate and it has TEETH!
Also, sometimes, although they seem to be really friendly with their caretakers, they feel aggressive against certain breeds – and guppies will be eaten quite quickly. I haven’t verified it, but it seems that the coloring of guppies or their shape may have looked like a breed of fish that could have been part of their diet in the wild – even though your puffer was most likely raised in captivity.
You might want to put in some easily manageable plants (real or artificial) but keep in mind they like to nibble on them from time to time, as well as ensuring that any dead plant debris is scooped or vacuumed out of the tank to prevent bacterial growth and increased nitrates (and ammonia) in the tank. If you get a bigger tank, which could be 29-gallon, 50-gallons or 100 gallons or more – be sure the filtration system is designed for it. If you decide to go to the undergravel system or a combination of that and the charcoal/bio-wheel system – make sure you only use gravel for the undergravel filtering unit. Sand, while the white kind or the black volcanic sand can be sucked down until it clogs up the system, especially quickly if you don’t put the gravel base on top of the undergravel filtration plates. The object of the undergravel unit is to draw down the debris away from the surface where it will eventually break down. Some people prefer both types of filtration systems working in unison; however, the charcoal and/or bio-wheel system is quite efficient. It will only require an occasional scooping or vacuuming of the tank.
I hope this helps out. Don’t forget to also Google search on the Internet for places where you can learn more – but the local library should have accessible information where folks at any level of expertise can find tips and tricks, do’s and don’ts abundant.
I hope this answers your question and that your aquarist experience proves to be interesting and enjoyable. Feel free to stop by and make comments whenever you have something to write about.
dawn said
Hello,
I have a 55gallon tank… i started with a huge piece of drift wood and a large peice of coral. I put in a geophagus, 2 rainbow sharks (i know. i’m taking one out tomorrow), 2 orange swordfish, 4 danios (our sacraficial fish..lol) 2 ruby barbs and 2 tiger barbs. and one white crayfish.ooo.. 3 parrot fish… and of course my favorite fish of all… puff daddy… The crayfish, 2 danios, 2 tiger barbs, all got eaten and recently i took back two parrots.. they were terrorizing my puffer. i added a jack dempsy, a peacock cichlid, 2 plecs and a couple small fish that i’m not sure of their names. my puffer has not eaten since i’ve added these fish which was this last friday. i did a 50% water change and suddenly most of the fish are hanging at the top. Puff daddy barely notices me when before he would come right up to me.. i’ve been reading about ich but while i see little white spots on puff daddy i dont see any on any other fish… i am also taking out the danios and one of the plecos. I am very concerned. I treated my water when i made the change. Is puff daddy stressed? does he have ich? I’m just worried that i did something terribly wrong and i dont know what to do…
any suggestions you would have i would so appreciate.
thank you
Keith said
Dawn:
First, remember this. Fish have a tendency of being territorial. Usually when fish are presented into the tank at the same time and as long as there are not aggressive fish in the tank – things work out. They find their places in the tank and establish their territory – it doesn’t have to be much of a size either. Some schooling fish seem to not have a problem as long as they are with at least one or two of their own kind. Mollies seem to work well with the Puffer. As well as other non-aggressive fish; however, like guppies (that are usually eaten immediately when entering the tank by the Puffer, probably because it looks like a fish they eat in a natural environment) they do not do well.
Jack Dempsey fish are aggressive – you shouldn’t have put him in with the Puffer, or for that matter most other fish. Another thing is trying to introduce fish about the same size or slightly larger than the puffer. Bottom feeders like the Chinese algae eater seems to do well with Puffers, despite their relatively smaller size.
When you did the water change (not required if your filtration system is of good quality and you keep the tank clean of debris) – was there a sudden temperature change? This is important, especially for tropical fish. Temperate fish, like goldfish seem to fare well with temperature changes – but beware of changing the water temperature from warm to cold too quickly. This can stress your fish and cause health problems.
Get yourself a water-testing kit – primarily to look for nitrates and ammonia. If those concentrations are too high, then you must find out why and take appropriate action. Adding water (distilled or spring water from grocery store) when the water evaporates should be the reason for adding water. Frequent water changes are not required if you perform proper filtration and cleaning, as well as paying attention to the condition of your water. Less stress on the fish. Bacteria is usually controlled when you clean your filters frequently, remove debris by hand or aquarium vacuum system, et cetera. Also, believe it or not, aquarium salt (not marine salt for saltwater tanks) is a beneficial thing to add to your aquarium. Follow directions on the package. A little bit lasts a long time. It keeps the fishes gills healthy and other benefits – sort of like the minerals we need and why we take vitamins.
Now the ick problem. Did the spots, which sounds like ick, show up after you introduced those new fish? I would suspect that you have introduced infected fish (they probably didn’t have visible symptoms when you bought them) and maybe the Puffer was sensitive to this. Don’t blame the place where you got it from – they get fish from distributors and while they treat their tanks with preventive chemicals, sometimes this happens.
Get some ick treatment from your local pet store, PetCo, or Wal-Mart and treat the tank. Obtain a cheap plastic 2-gallon or 1-gallon (as long as it has a simple filtration system) to use as a “hospital” tank. This is what I use. It was especially important when I had invested a lot of money in marine coral reef fish in my 50-gallon tank.
If you suspect that fish is diseased, remove it (make sure the temperature in the hospital tank is the same or close to the same as the main tank) and keep it segregated immediately. In fact, it wouldn’t hurt to introduce new fish into the hospital tank, and after a week of close observation and they look healthy – put them in the main tank. Reputable and responsible pet shop or aquarist shop dealers do this to safeguard their investment.
It is hard to determine what you did, but probably nothing “terribly” wrong.
Cichlids are aggressive by nature. Go down to the library or consult a local aquarist shop for compatible fish. Also down at the library you can find books to learn and become a better aquarist.
Once you have learned and experienced the set up – you will find keeping an aquarium is quite enjoyable, and there are those who believe that aquariums are good therapy for people – it seems that sitting and watching the fish soothes and calms us. I know it has always had that affect on me. As a kid, I would go to sleep watching the fish swim about.
And, if your Puffer “daddy” is stressed, his belly (which should be white) will darken or change hue; however, as noted in other comments here – this often is just a short-term mood change. Soon you will, after observation, learn the habits of this little aquatic friend and feel more comfortable.
And, as far as the crayfish – crustaceans are the main diet of Puffers (all species), thus the reason that Mother Nature gave them teeth. I am glad you have coral or some hard surface because the Puffer must grind down their teeth like rabbits (rodents in general) so they do not grow too long.
Along with the library, you may find some interesting and informative material on the Internet. If you have a favorite book at the library you would like to keep around the house for reference, check out Amazon.com. Their prices are reasonable and usually they have these types of books.
PS – help promote a clean tank by introducing catfish and the Chinese algae eater – the latter doesn’t just eat algae and they eat almost 24-hours per day. Also, you can balance your tank. What I mean is: bottom dwellers like catfish, medium depth fish like Mollies, or top water dwellers like the African butterfly fish.
Hope this helps you.
Good luck, and thanks for stopping by and visiting Kritter Girl’s Kritter Korner and sharing these thoughts and concerns.
Best Regards …
Michele said
Thank you for your answers and yes they are much help. I got the puffer at walmart and I did everything I was told by the fish salesmen. I do not plan on putting any other fish in with this one. I just wanted this lttle guy cause he was so cute.
Keith said
Michele:
Be careful about sales associates – not all of them have the true background or experience as, say, an owner of a privately-owned pet shop. The person got into that type of business because he is an aquarist and enjoys what he does. Some associates at Wal-Mart do not have the knowledge or training, or sometimes don’t bother to check on the criteria of the fish they sell. No particular fault of the sales associate, it is just that they don’t always hire experts or aquarists that can provide answers to the customers or solve any problems occurring.
I am glad I provided some help for you. And your right, Puffers are interesting critters and enjoyable. You can put fish with the Puffer, just make sure the tank is sufficient size to accommodate several fish. It is better for them health wise as well.
Thanks again for stopping by and sharing your thoughts.
Kay said
I just introduced a small green spotted puffer bought from Walmart to our 29 gal freshwater tank. I have other fish and ghost shrimp and snails. I have read they eat shrimp and snails. Our new puffer doesn’t even look @ them, will this change? Will the puffer become aggressive? It has been in the tank for 2 days now. The puffer is new to the tank the others have been in there. Thanks, great website!
Keith Lehman said
Kay:
Puffers should be kept in pairs. Depending upon what “other fish” you have determines compatibility. Yes, they eat shrimp and snails, but the appropriate freeze-dried foods works well. The reason why I never have snails anymore is they multiply profusely and the young snails enter the filtration system and gunk it up. They are more bother than worth. Sea shells and coral in the tank will provide something for the puffer to gnaw on.
Some fish nip at other fish on their fins – when a puffer nips it has teeth. Usually this behavior is due to territory.
Have fund with your green puffer – they are one of the best tank fish in the aquatic world. By the way, if you ever decide to go marine (saltwater), puffers can adapt gradually to saltwater – they have been found in nature in brackish and fresh water.
Best Regards,
Keith
Keith Lehman said
Kay …
Your ghost shrimp and snails are food to a GSP.
crissy said
I got this fish at wal-mart because i thought that they were cute. When i read the paper attached to the tank and it never said anything about me having to file thier teeth. and it also said that they puff up but now i found out that they don’t even do that(which was one of the reasons that i got them). and since they are small i thought that they would go good in a small 1.5 gallon tank that i bought them, but now i found out that they grew to six inches long and they should be put in a tank no smaller then a 20 gallon tank. and now I dont know if i will be able to deal with such high Maintenance fish. They are cute and i would like to keep them. Is there anything else i should be worried aboutas these fish get older? Oh and what is brackish water and are the fishes both sex or are there two sexes?
Keith Lehman said
Crissy:
Unfortunately, places that sell fish do not provide tips when selling aquatic creatures. In the case of Wal-Mart, it depends what sales associate is selling it to you. I provided a printed paper to pass out to customers concerning the Green Puffer because at the time I as a sales associate for the Sporting Goods and Pet Department. The paper was never used, despite the fact I photocopied several to pass out. However, you can find a wealth of information on the Internet and your local library. The little Green Puffer is not the marine kind that expands itself when alarmed (you wouldn’t want to stress the fish just to see this anyway). The Box fish does the same thing, also a marine aquatic creature.
The rule of thumb for fish tanks is fish that are 2-inches or smaller, one per gallon. I know that 50 gallon tanks are expensive, but that is what you should strive for if you are thinking of being a serious aquarist.
You can lower the “maintenance” efforts by providing pieces of coral and natural rock in the tank for the Green Puffer to gnaw on and just watch him to ensure that his teeth are grinding down.
“Brackish” water is marine (salt) water, and these fish and its several species can adapt to both worlds – fresh and marine. It must be a gradual change, however. Green Puffers, of the puffer species are naturally found in fresh waters in nature. They don’t get as large as their marine counterparts.
My advice to aquarists or those intending to be so, read up and decide what fish you would like to have in your tank before purchasing. You should have a tank set up with “aged” water and ready before purchasing anyway. I know sometimes it is hard to do so and have the patience to wait because aquatic creatures are so interesting – but it is best to do so for the fish and prevent future problems.
What is covered here is just about the gist of what you need to know. Visit the links or just type “green puffer” in Google search (or whatever search engine you use) and you will be surprised at the wealth of information. The little ones have become popular. One of the better sites is “Badman’s Tropical Fish” where it has detailed profiles of fish from A to Z. Along with the picture of the fish, there is a map showing where they can be found naturally. The Green Puffer is from the family of fishes like Porcupinefish, Triggerfish, Boxfish and the Puffer (the one that inflates itself). However, the author fails to mention the part about its teeth. This “maintenance” is not required at all – if you provide things for it to “gnaw” on. Also, rock structure and real/artificial plants also provide a more natural atmosphere – for your pleasure and the aquatic creatures feeling more comfortable in their surroundings.
Not much available information about breeding the Green Puffer. Separate genders, they perform courtship at the bottom of the tank and they are egg layers. The male guard the fry when they are born, they resemble tadpoles. Feeding the fry can be difficult according to those who have tried. Brine shrimp is recommended for their diet until they get larger and the mortality rate is high.
I hope this answers your questions and thanks for stopping by to visit and taking the time to share your thoughts.
Best Regards …
crissy said
thanks for the info i will go and get somethings for the fish to chew on. But i dont have to worry about any of my fish having little fiahies because one of them died. I was looking at him and noticed that the other fish was being mean to him and when i would feed them the mean fish would push him out of the way. later when i would feed them the little fish wouldnt even try to eat knowing that he would only get pushed into the glass. The ironic thing was was that the bigger fish was the one getting bullied by the smaller fish. A couple of days later i saw him floating at the top of the tank and i thought that he had died i even pushined him around and i got no response. It wasnt until i lifted him a little out of the water that he reacted. he went to the bettom and blew out an air bubble. Then he came back up and sucked in some air and closed his mouth and just floated there. I thought maybe it was natural. well the next day I found him belly up. What happened there? I thought i had a healthy fish because when he was alive he would jump in the tank splashing the lid. But i dont know what happened! I had gotten attached to the fish too because when I would go to the tank he would swim right to me and just follow me. Maybe he was trying to singnal something to me. lol! Well the other fish is doing good he swims around the plants and plays with the crystle rocks I got him. I feed him and he eats everything. So now i have to take real good care of this little guy. Do i have to worry about this one filling up with air too? And is there anything i can do to prevent it?
Keith Lehman said
Crissy:
Your welcome.
Sorry to hear about your fish.
I do not know what happened to him/her. It sounds like when a fish suddenly comes out of deep depths and their air bladder becomes imbalanced; however, this, of course, is not the case.
You have me puzzled on this one.
Well, enjoy the other Puffer and you will find that it will follow you and go to the glass when you approach as well.
crissy said
thanx again. this fish is getting used to me now and greets me when I feed him. Thanx for the info and the help. Hopefully he wont suck in any air any time soon!
Keith Lehman said
Crissy:
Glad to help – hope you and your Puffer are happy.
wired34476 said
what fish r ok to put in with puffer fish im not sure what kind he or she is it yellow with black spot please help if you can thank you
Keith Lehman said
Wired:
As stated in previous comments, depending upon mood and conditions the Green Puffer will change in color – especially the belly.
There is also an aquarist puffer called the White Spotted Puffer, in that case it is grey with white spots.
As an added note – Puffers need their “Veggies”; however the proper nutritional content in tropical fish flakes provide the same nutrition. But, for a diet change, you can introduce vegetable matter, but only if they eat it right away because you don’t want added waste in your tank.
As the puffer reaches adulthood they tend to, for some reason, get a bit more aggressive with other fish and other puffers. The rule of thumb is do not put aggressive fish in with them and introduce fish that are pretty much equal in size to the puffer. Bottom feeders, such as the catfish at pet stores seem to do well. Crustaceans are part of their natural diet – so it might be not good to introduce crabs, et cetera.
There are several species and color variations in the Spotted Puffer – so you may find that some are more yellowish than green. Most have a bright green color with black spots and a white belly.
Puffers are voracious eaters, thus maybe why they are shaped the way they are, and I found that they will eat guppies almost as soon as the hit the water when introduced to the tank. So, unless you want to get rid of an overpopulated guppy tank – don’t put those in there. If you feed the puffers regularly and they are not hungry, other freshwater (although the puffer is actually a brackish water fish that does well in both fresh and marine water, once acclimatized) should not be bothered by the puffer, as long as the other fish don’t nip. Remember that when a puffer nips, they have teeth!
And while the cute little buggers will swim to the edge of the tank and seem to follow you as you move, he just wants either food or attention. In natural life, Puffers are predators, meaning they prey on other aquatic species, their favorite food, as aforementioned, is crustaceans. Most problems occur when other fish are introduced into the tank where a puffer is already established. It seems after observation that they are territorial like most coral reef fish. And by the way, the puffer should have some aquarium salt added (the kind that is sold in milk carton like boxes, not marine salt). Follow the directions and your puffer will live longer. Although the puffer lives in both fresh and marine water, it is the happiest and healthiest when there is some salt content in it. Beware of the phenomenon of the salt content increasing, over time, when introducing aquarium salt. Keep introducing fresh water in the tank as it evaporates. This is a method that marine aquarists are familiar with. You may purchase a hydrometer to keep the salinity levels down to acceptable levels – Puffers only need about 1.015 salinity, if even that. Maybe some puffer owners might want to consider changing over to marine tanks and then with the right sized fish enjoy more fish in their tanks. Keep the puffer fed regularly and they won’t get aggressive and decide to have a tank mate for lunch. Unlike the piranha – it is not cannibalistic.
Crystal said
Hey I know this question has been askede already but i had some things to add to it. We have had our puffer fore a little over a week and we came home one night and he his crawled up in a ball at he bottle of the tank. But when we turn his tank light off he is ok and started to swim around ok. He is the only fish in the tank also and is usually swimming all over the place. Please let me know whats going on
Keith Lehman said
Crystal:
Tank lights are for humans – they are not required by aquatic life, except maybe for certain plants. If you do not have a fluorescent lamp system, it overheats the water (also saves electricity), as well as both types of lighting promote algae when left on for long periods of time. Never have a fish tank in direct sunlight, like by a window. Light sources in the natural habitat are filtered lighting. Maybe your Puffer is telling you it is too bright for long periods of time.
This is the only explanation I can come up with without physically observing the fish.
Jason said
I recently received a pair of tiny gsp’s
I know they are to have a bare min of 20 gal after reading the user comments, but they are currently only .5in long each.
Right now I have only got a 5 gallon tank, and reading your earlier comment on rule of thumb being 1 fish per gallon, would I be safe with them like this, as long as i have adequate vegitation and hiding places?
Also, how fast do they mature? I don’t want them getting cramped, but I am in a situation where I will be moving in a little while. I would like to hold off expanding their tank until at least then, though i know a move will be stressful.
I am using the aquarium salt, and have a little heater in it, though i can’t tell if it is working, as I am using an external thermometer that i don’t really trust, ….they are being kept at least 72 so it should be good.
I also have those baby shrimp, but thats where i was curious… is that a sole diet for them? And how much should I be feeding them in a day… Is overfeeding possible or will they just eat till they are full and stop leaving me more mess to clean up later?
I just want to be sure they are getting the food they need, as the tank is a bit smaller than I would like for them and I don’t want them to go cannibal on me.
Keith Lehman said
Jason (?):
Thanks for visiting and comments …
A pair of Puffers will do nicely in the five-gallon tank; however, they may not grow to normal (natural) size. Mother Nature, when it comes to fish, has given fish the ability to only grow according to the volume of water they are in. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule – for example, guppies. Guppies only grow so big no matter how big of a tank they are put in.
The other major factor is oxygen – thus the rule of 1 fish per gallon (although certain fresh water fish can do with 2 per gallon).
I guess until you move, their present home should suffice. Keep their stress down by putting artificial or live plants, and don’t forget a chunk of coral so they can chew on it. Although live plants are sometimes a hassle to deal with, I believe that they are better than plastic. The ideal tank is a miniature world where the fish naturally live – the rest of the “accessories” are merely for human pleasure/taste. Live plants can make an aquarium not only look natural (although plastics today are quite realistic), but it also provides a natural source of oxygen. However, you must clean the plant debris that accumulates because this will release nitrogen (byproduct of waste/rotting plants/dead animals). While the nitrogen is good for plant life, it isn’t (in certain quantities) for fish.
Go down to the library and seek out aquarist books. You can soon move from an amateur to a professional armed with the information in books written by professional aquarists and specialty folks in that field of aquatics.
Puffers can handle 70 degrees quite well – all my tropics, after some experience and vast reading, have been kept at 70 degrees. Even the warm marine sea life, like certain delicate sea creatures can handle this temperature. The reason why I keep it at 70 and never allow it above 72-degrees is because the warmer the water the more problems with things like algae and bacterial problems that promotes disease. In addition, the warmer the water, the more water flow is required or adding air devices – because warmer water doesn’t retain oxygen as well as cooler water.
Puffers will not overfeed. Well fed puffers are healthy and tend not to attack any tank mates that are compatible. With the puffer, it is hard to tell what tank mates to introduce. The rule of thumb there is: (1) usually if the tank mates were in the tank first, the puffer will not bother them (unless they are guppies, which for some reason they seem to want to eat immediately); (2) make sure that the fish are not aggressive and the same size as the puffers. Puffers are funny – they are sometimes very docile and other times aggressive.
As far as feeding, you will learn it is better to feed a couple of times a day with small quantities rather than dumping food in the tank at once.
Puffers would have to be extremely hungry to turn cannibalistic. They are not like the Piranha of South America.
Thanks for visiting. Hope your move is as pleasant as possible.
Best Regards …
valarie said
Help, don’t know if my earlier email went through so I will try it again. I have two green spotted puffers in a 26 gal. brackish. They have been so happy for over a year. Water fine, one just stopped eatting. It has been a week. I have tried several different types of food, she isn’t interested. Now this week the big one has stopped eating. Water fine, 80 deg, clean, hard water, nothing new in the tank. Help, the little one is getting so small I am afraid I will loose her this week.
Keith Lehman said
Valerie:
Turn the thermostat down to 72-degrees. I wrote that warmer temperatures promote more bacteria and less oxygen. 72-degrees is comfortable for all fish, even 70-degrees for tropical fish.
Did you create brackish water for fish that was living in fresh water when you bought it? That change alone will be harsh on their system. They can live in both brackish and fresh – but the change must be gradual.
Check with the people you purchased the puffers from.
Chad said
ok my puffer i just got was fine then it started acting funny like it was sad the belly has been dark grey with light grey and part white i gave him snails he ate like 5 of them i give him freeze dried krill ghost shrimp and blood worms yet he is still not happy he is the only one in the 10 gallon tank. with a lot of plant and decor and with a temp of about 76-79 degrees could it be its not adjusted to its new home or is it lonley
valarie said
Thank you Keith for your information. Yes, they are in brackish water and have been for over a year. Now the one is eating again but the little one still isn’t. It has been over two weeks and she is getting smaller and smaller. Still swimming but not looking well. I have done all the water tests, great, different foods, nothing. I am just watching her melt. Any other ideas?
Keith Lehman said
Valarie:
Check the salinity level of your salt – you may have to add fresh water. Through the process of evaporation the salt level can get too high. Purchase a salinity tester for this purpose at local fish supply store. Don’t let the salinity level get higher than prescribed – also check with marine fish folks at local store. Also visit the library and read up on this fish and other brackish water fish and this will arm you with information you can use.
valarie said
Hey Keith, thanks for your help!! I appreciate all comments. Salinity is fine, been checking all the time. Last night she ate!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dried krill. She didn’t eat much but had a few bites. Could this 2plus week fast be pickiness? I am going to try krill again tonight and then move to beef hearts? Would she really kill herself over a picky appetite? Valarie
Brian said
Hi,
I recently set up a little 5 gal. tank for my son. We saw the little green spotted puffer and had to have it. The person at the fish store told us the only care he required was some bloodworms and brackish water. We already had a cory cat and an otto cat in the tank, but since he is only about 2″, I figured he had plenty of room. We have had him a week so far. He eats the bloodworms right up. After reading different web sites I was worried about the other fish but he has not bothered either of the them at all. I also gave him some snails, which he ate right away, and then some ghost shrimp. There were 5,now there are 3, so I’m guessing he ate them. Some things concern me I was hoping you could help me with. After he ate the snails, he curled up and sat at the bottom and kind of moved with the current listley.I thought I killed him, however 10 minutes later he was cruising the tank. I found him curled up this morning when I turned the light on. Again, I thought he was leaving us. 5 minutes later he was cruising the tank. He always eats and has a huge appetite. The thing that really bothers me is that he will go to one corner of the tank and swim UP and DOWN for hours. If I come over he will occasionally stop and come see me. Sometimes he just ignores me. Also, his coloring seems strange. He is spotted, but dead center on top of his head, he is brighter! I did not notice this at the time we bought him. Also there is a little grayness where is belly meets his tail; the rest of his belly is white. Just earlier, he looked “fatter” which I guess was him puffing up and he started racing thru the tank and “scratching” his back on all the plants and the tiki. That’s what it looked like he was doing, rubbing himself on things intentionally. I have read that these fish need a minimum of 25 gallons. Unfortunately, while fish fascinate me and I would love to have a bigger tank, we have a new baby and it’s just out of the question. $$$ is tight:( Can you tell me what he is doing? I would hate to lose the little guy. Our tank is “furnished” with a couple of plants, large enough to go from the bottom of the tank to the water line, and a tiki head. There really isn’t any place for him to hide. Do they require a hiding spot? I had no idea how much care was needed for this fish, I’am willing to do it, cause I like the little guy, but I think its kind of wrong to sell this fish to people without educating them on it. How many die because people are clueless to there needs. Anyways I was wondering if you could shed any light on what this little guy is doing or thinking.
Thanks
Keith Lehman said
Brian:
The bright green, almost fluorescent is normal. As far as what he does after eating, especially crustaceans this too is normal. Like a bass does after eating a crayfish or two – part of the digestive process. When his belly is white he is okay, sometimes when their mood changes their white belly turns darker or when they are not feeling well.
Your right about those who sell fish, however, it would be good for aquarists to take a trip to the library and research fish they intend to purchase. Puffers are happier in minimum 25 gallon tanks; however with a single puffer and one or two aquarium mates, he will be okay for awhile in the five gallon as long as it has the proper filtration system and it is kept clean, et cetera.
Puffers do not require hiding spots, but on occasion will find a corner to stay for awhile. The behavior he is demonstrating is pretty ordinary with a puffer.
Enjoy your puffer and visit the library and read more about the little guy, they are interesting.
Brian said
Thanks so much for your reply! I’m happy to report he is alive and well. He has stopped swimming up and down and now kinda just cruises the tank. I have good filtration and plan on doing a weekly 50% water change. So far so good. Thanks again!
Anthony said
I have recently just bought 2 gsp’s already have 7 other fish in my 29 gallon aquarium. So i purchased a divider. So the puffers could be separated. My first question is one of my puffers has a green spotted top side then i goes to a white belly. My other smaller puffer has a green top but then has 2 black sides then the belly is white. I didnt know what that meant. And also my puffer curls up into a ball at the bottom of the tank. Does this mean that they are just sleeping or does it mean they are sick. I wasnt sure.
ALEX said
I JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT TWO MORE GREEN SPOTTED PUFFER’S AFTER MY FIRST ONE DIED. MY FIRST PUFFER FISH WAS DOING GREAT AT FIRST BUT THEN HE STARTED GROWING SOME WHITE STUFF ON HIS BODY AND EYES, WHY IS THAT? ALSO, HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE THE WATER? AND WHAT SHOULD THE WATER CONTAIN WHEN ADDING IT?
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
Thanks for sharing your thoughts …
Green Puffers come in varieties of colors and encompass several species.
You might have to read up at the local library on that one. It seems, from my experience that this is what they do and doesn’t mean they are sick, as well as their bellies being another color than white – mood or not feeling well. Worry if it shows signs of fin rot or spots (usually white) – then segregate and provide the necessary treatment found at local fish supply stores – you may find this at Wal-Mart, which will save you money.
Your puffers seem normal, according to your description.
Thanks for visiting.
Editor – Keith
Keith Lehman said
Alex:
The white stuff is probably a fungus or the common disease, Ick. Check your local supplier to obtain the necessary treatment. Segregate the sick fish immediately and treat it with aforementioned substance (usually a liquid, so many drops per gallon). When he looks good and healthy return him with his tank mates. I have kept what I call a “hospital tank” – 2- or 5-gallon tank complete with filtration system and nothing in it except gravel. I like the 2-gallon (they come with filter systems or you can purchase one small enough to fit) because the water is easier to maintain as far as temperature and preparation. Keep the tank at a temperature the same as tank taken from. They need caring and the sudden drop in temperature could bring death.
Obtain a water testing kit and follow the instructions. Changing water periods vary and are needed under certain conditions – and even then the water in the tank should only be replaced by 50%, unless something drastic has occurred. Visit local library and get more if information. Best economical source, unless you want to purchase a reference book for convenience and your home library.
Thanks for visiting and sharing your thoughts and questions.
Editor – Keith
Ruthie Glavinich said
Thank you for your informative and consistent website. Others are a bit inconsistent with matter of opinions. I only wished I had found you sooner. I recently lost my little GSP, “Mojo” after only having him for 3 weeks. We purchased him at Wal-Mart and started him in a 5 gallon tank, only to learn from other Forums that this was too small & then transferred him into a 20 gallon tank. Research for this particular little fishy would have been wise on our part prior to purchasing, instead of the advice of Wal-Mart. After long evenings of research on the internet for GSPs, we felt that maybe this was gonna be too much and thought about returning him/her to Wal-Mart. Meanwhile, I totally fell in love with little Mojo and could not give him up! We purchased all of our accessories from our local, independently owned aquarium shop and I entrusted all of the information given by the owner. Unfortunately, the poor little guy had to be in our newly set-up cycling tank, Bio-Zyme added & Aquarium Salt. Another pet shop where I purchased live brine shrimp to get Mojo to eat had warned that this probably wasn’t going to work and that the fish would die. I did not listen and followed the instruction of the aquarium shop. The fish started to develop white spots, that looked like a sprinkle of salt all over his body and fins. The acquarium store insisted that the fish was under stress due to the new cycling tank, not ick and that it would go away in a few days and to give it a week to 9 days. Are these spots in your opinion, caused by stress? I have not read this anywhere in my on-line research. Meanwhile, the fish was normal acting, other than the spots. After a week, it was worse & some of the skin started to look like bits of stringy cotton. I immediately took a water sample to his store for testing. Come to find out ammonia was a bit high and we narrowed it down to a sea shell my husband added to the water a few days back, which probably contained ammonia sulfate that had been out in the yard. Big mistake!, as the soft shell absorbs these toxins. I rushed home to rescue my little guy from the water and we stripped the tank and started over! That evening after adding the fish back into the newly cycling tank at 82 degrees (all other forums suggested higher water temps especially for treatment of ick-as high as 86 and nothing less than 78), we lost Mojo about 4 hours later. I am very heart broken. I know this poor little fish was probably overwhelmed and I am so sorry. It could of been the temperature also. Unfortunately, you cannot go backwards and now I’m not certain about entrusting the local aquarium store. I think you just have to go on instinct. Please advise as to your expertise on this issue, I don’t want anyone else to make the same mistake. I have a beautiful tank and no fish right now and figure it would be best to wait 3-4 weeks for the tank to fully cycle before purchasing another GSP. Thank you for listening.
Keith Lehman said
Ruthie Glavinch:
Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences because in this way you can help fellow aquarists. Thanks for the accolades, but my wife, Kritter Girl, is the author/owner, and I am just a “guest writer” here because of my interest and knowledge about aquariums and the creatures that live there.
Wal-Mart is a nice place to shop, but sometimes they don’t ensure that there are people who know about pets (aquariums) in the pet department are working in that department. Sometimes this is true with the folks at the local aquarist shop, but less frequently.
GPs show stress when their belly changes from white to an off-color. Spots are usually ick, a form of bacterial infection. Many aquarists do not spend the money (or time) to invest in a water testing kit (the multi-testing type is best because it checks for nitrogen, ammonia, et cetera. That is a shame because you can keep tabs on water quality that way. That can be purchased affordably at your local Wal-Mart. And, yes, shells are porous material and do absorb toxins. As you figured out, the ammonia in the soil was in the shell. Shells found on the seashore and thoroughly washed (do not use bleach or soap because of the same absorption reason) – soaked for a few days in plain water and then rinsed before introducing into a tank.
In the long time as an aquarist, I have found that the warmer the water the more chance of bacteria and other problems – I have never, even in my “hospital tank” (used to separate sick fish that may cause the entire tank to be lost) at anything above 74-degrees. My average temperature ranged from 70-72 degrees F. The warmer the water, the less oxygen is available and then an air supply should be introduced.
It is good for you to wait until your tank recycles. Another mistake, usually caused in the excitement of getting their new aquarium set up is that they don’t allow the tank’s water to cycle or “age”. I am surprised that aquarium forums suggested water temperatures that high. As far as temps, the other thing to watch out for is sudden changes (marine or freshwater) – from the time you get the fish (allowing the water in the bag to float in the tank water to acclimate) to any time it is necessary for a water change. In my salt tank I ensured that proper cycling occurred and the salt content was kept in its appropriate levels – never changing the water, just adding distilled water when the tank water evaporated (which is more frequent with marine water than fresh water). The temperature I kept for a marine tank was 72 degrees F.
I hope you haven’t given up on the GP, but there are other wonderful and interesting fish available. Check the Internet; try Dr. Jungle’s Animal World, which I find very reputable. And since you are cycling the fish tank – did you consider turning it into a small marine tank? I usually recommend to folks (from experience) that a 50-gallon tank should be a minimum for a salt water tank. The most expensive part of the marine tank is the filtration system, the bio-mechanical combo that is pricey. But it works so very well. Marine fish, specifically coral reef fish are so beautiful and interesting to observe. Just don’t leave the aquarium light on too much and use a fluorescent and not an incandescent bulb; although with today’s energy saving bulbs, the incandescent is on its way to becoming like the Dodo bird. The set up for marine tanks are the most hassle, I found it was not so bad in maintaining. Also, I found that marine fish are less likely to get the usual things like Ick, et cetera, for some reason.
Go down to the local library and read some books and then decide. You can do this while you cycle the aquarium for a home for new fish. You can also add (in a small way because you have a 20-gallon tank) things like live coral, anemones, clams, crabs and other invertebrates as well – making it a miniature coral reef display. Marine fish are not as expensive as they used to be because they are bred/raised in tanks and no longer require divers to collect them. I think the fish quality received is better as well and they are not as stressed. Stress can kill fish.
I am sorry about you Mojo (cool name) passing and hope your next experience in the aquarist hobby is more enjoyable. You will find that watching your aquarium occupants will actually relieve YOUR stress.
Best Regards and thanks for stopping by and visiting the Kritter Girl (wife) blog, Kritter Korner. Let me know how things work out either via this commentary section or email – lpj_editor@earthlink.net
PS – I checked out your Mojo weight-lure site – is that your website? I am going to add this site to my fishing bookmark section at Lighthouse Patriot Journal.
KAL
newfishmom said
Hi, I was wondering if small white dots attached to my puffer were normal? this morning there seem to be more on him. its not part of the green and black spots.. its more on top of those like little salt grains. (i have a freshwater tank w/ three other similar sized fish and two small frogs.)
newfishmom said
okay so now im reading all this and i go to check on puffer and now he isnt moving… possibly dead..
newfishmom said
HE’S ALIVE! sorry..
Keith Lehman said
New Fish Mom:
Glad he is alive. People keep talking about spots, and it certainly seems that this is Ick; however, I couldn’t possibly (like any reputable MD) make a call without actually physically examining the fish. And since a house call is not feasible, I will ask you to go to the library and read up – or the Internet. Photos would be provided. Maybe I should write an article concerning this problem complete with photos, and that would help folks.
Sometimes, even though we are careful, we purchase fish that already have a problem, but not noticeable when purchased. This does not mean that your aquarium fish supplier is uninformed or devious, but that they also got sick fish from whatever distributor sold it to them.
I have provided some preventions and some cures and recommended having a “hospital” tank in ready in case a sick aquarium creature comes down with something and the isolation prevents spreading as well as a place to attend specifically to the sick fish.
I am glad he is alive and thank you for sharing your experience with us here at Kritter Korner.
Kim said
I just really wanted to thank you for taking the time and effort to keep this up and running. I was just “fishing” around for some general info on my tank when I came across this. I have 2 gsp’s (Mr. Puffer and Lil’ Puff) as well as a pink kissing gourami, a dinosaur eel, a shark (but i truly believe he’s a catfish) and a ciclid. They are in a fairly large tank and have been happy fishymates for a couple months now. Every once in a while Mr Puffer gets upset with lil puff but then they go back under their plant and snooze together so I guess it’s just a little family spat. At first I was a little hesitant about having all these guys together but there isn’t any torn fins or problems so far. They all seem to have their favorite spots. Now here comes the question. All my little fishies are getting fat. I know this seems funny but it’s true. Not fat like in obese but healthy thick little tummies. I was kinda worried they might be overeating. I normally feed them in the morning when I turn on their light and give them a snack 1 or 2 times later on in the day (especially at bed time). I have to say my little puffs are my favorite (and the eel cuz he was just a little tyke and now he’s getting a little bigger) and I would hate to have anything happen to them. (OH and thank you so much for telling us about the teeth…I had no idea!) I do keep my tank at about 71 degrees and the water is fine (salt and all). I was just worried about them overeating. Thanks!
Keith Lehman said
Kim (?):
Thanks for stopping by and visiting Kritter Girl’s Kritter Korner – and sharing your thoughts and experience.
Your comment is a true testament to the wonderful world of having GSPs.
Sometimes cichlids are too aggressive (fin biting) and most fish species like their own space, thus the major reason for nipping. You seem to have a harmonious tank with interesting aquatic critters.
As far as feeding, I always recommend no “snacks” and once a day feeding. The rule of thumb across the board is putting enough food where it is all eaten by the occupants. And as far as “fat tummies” – the GSP will get like that after feeding.
Thanks for stopping by and providing readers more information and relating your good experience of being an aquarist.
Best Regards …
KAL
Ruthie Glavinich said
Hi Keith. Thank you for your response to the Mojo story. Yes, mojolures.com is our website and Thank you also for your interest. My husband, Larry is the brain behind all of the products we sell and promote. This is what happens when your hobby turns into your worst nightmare. I’m the support and bookkeeper. I have a few more questions for you. When you mentioned the multi-test kit, is there one available that includes testing for ammonia? I have only seen multi for: nitrate-nitrite-PH-chlorine-alkalinity-hardness. Forgive me for being, “Water-Test Dumb”. What do I really need to worry about testing?? Also, the test-strips are more expensive, do you suggest these??? My tank has been cycling for 2 weeks now without any fish. I do not need to keep adding Bio-Zyme weekly, do I? Finally, when will the water be ideal for adding fish, what do I need to look for as far as water condition?? Sorry this is all new to me. Thank you for your support.
Sincerely,
Ruthie Glavinich
Adri said
Hi I was wondering if someone can please tell me if my green spotted puffer fish is sick?I’ve brought 3 of those fish and they are not moving a lot.And do you have to give them live snails?These fish might die I need to help them but I need to know evreything what they need animals are my life I cant live without them I would just cry if the fish died.And if they splash in the water like with there mouths does it mean there hungry?Im so sad I love these fish if they die i cant have anymore im going to have water snails then.Please help me someone reply fast to me!
I love them 
I cant lose them.:(
Adri said
Hi its me again,is anyone going to reply to me?My fish are better
But 1 of them isnt swimming right 
Its swimming on the wall.Please someone reply to me 
Please I love my green spotted puffer fish 
Someone please tell me about them bye 
Keith Lehman said
Adri:
Sorry for the delay …
Most of your questions have already been answered within previous comments concerning the GP. As far as the swimming behavior, it is the GP’s personality, so to speak. Keep your water clean and free from ammonia and nitrates and visit the library to read all about aquariums, both fresh and marine varieties. Or visit the links provided here on the Internet.
All fish take a while to get accustomed to their new environment, some longer than others – but at least they have the company of each other (three GP). After they feel more at home, they will soon be more comfortable. Remember they took a trip to the place where you purchased them, then to your home aquarium.
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience with us.
KAL
Keith Lehman said
Ruthie G:
Hello to you!
Thanks for answering my question. Hobbies, I guess could turn into a lot of work when they are commercialized. Being an avid angler, I am glad that your husband is around. It is hard to find the type of weights offered at the Mojo site, and I have shared this knowledge with fellow anglers. I have made my own rigs up, mostly customized from other folks’ designs, but intend to make an occasional order from your website to keep my tackle box properly stocked.
Wal-Mart has a multi-test kit that includes the test for ammonia. If not, check out the Internet by searching (“Googling”) for the multi-test kit or the ammonia test kit for aquarists. Check out Dr. Jungle’s Animal World whose link is listed in the right column under “Info Highway” – a reputable place and a great place to learn more about aquarium critters.
And one note about their teeth – the growth period isn’t really short like mammalian rodents, so it is not critical, but only so over a period of time. As far as I can tell from experts on this cute little aquatic fellow, the GP takes care of this problem on its own by supplying it something to grind down the teeth occasionally via lava rocks, or something naturally similar. Use natural stuff – not from outside because you don’t know what has soaked into the rocks that may be toxic to your aquatic friends, but purchased from a reputable aquarium supplier. Painted rocks are pretty, but are they toxic? Stick to natural items in your tank, especially if you want a natural setting. Do not use aquarium accessories made in China, for unlike reputable aquarium accessory suppliers made of plastic with embedded colors within the plastic, those from China tend to be painted. China has not much of a quality control system.
And, Ruthie, remember that no question is “dumb” – only the question you don’t ask. Questions are a way of learning, as I have frequently told my students when I was an instructor. And, if I don’t know, I will either research or provide information as to where to find an answer.
Thank YOU for your support by visiting Kritter Korner and hope you enjoy my wife’s articles here. For an occasional fishing article and other articles on varied subjects, visit Lighthouse Patriot Journal, listed here in the right column.
Thanks for your patience in awaiting an answer.
Best Regards,
KAL
Adri said
Hi can anyone please help me
Because I have 3 Green spotted puffer fish but I cant do anything I dont know much about them.1 died already I really need help *cry* The other 2 dont look so good I think they got sick too 
Please these are my favorite fish I dont want to lose all of them 
Bye
Adri said
Ok thanks Keith Lehman ill do all of those things thank you so much for replying to me bye
Keith Lehman said
Adri:
Your welcome.
KAL
star said
i have an adorable spotted green puffer fish but it doesent seem happy. i dont feed it treets cause mom cant affored it and i dont make allowence. it dosent really eat or puff up ither.
Adri said
Hi once again thank you.But the thing is 1 died already and 1 is going to die it looks very sick
But I have another 1 it looks perfect its really playful right now lol 
Bye
Adri said
Hi once again thank you.But the thing is another 1 might die it looks very sick
But I have another 1 it looks perfect its really playful right now lol 
Bye
Keith Lehman said
Star:
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your concerns …
How do you know it is not “happy”. As I stated in previous comments, different specie of fish have different habits, et cetera. Puffers have their moods. The puffer, when healthy and happy has a bright white or lightly colored belly. Sometimes GPs will just languish or stay in one place for periods of time. Nothing to worry about.
Over feeding fish of any specie is not good, and one must pay attention about having too much left over food in the tank because this causes issues concerning water clarity and bacterial control.
Some things you did not mention:
1) How large is your tank?
2) How many fish per gallon?
3) Just exactly what is the GP doing?
Also, the GP, while a type of puffer fish, it does not truly “puff” – and if it did, this means that it was under stress. In the wild they do this to make themselves look threatening to protect themselves from predators, much like a bird will make itself look bigger when threatened by using certain body postures like extending wings and puffing up their feathers.
Stress is not good for that is detrimental to their health, as other aquatic creatures. So, if you had a puffer that actually extended itself, you would not want to scare the fish to make it puff. Not cool.
Also, if you just got the GP, like other fish they have to have time to get used to their environment.
It would be a good thing to take a trip to the library or surf the Internet and search to gain knowledge about the GP and other aquatic critters.
Thank you for visiting Kritter Korner and hope this was helpful.
Adri said
Hi its me Adri again just wanted to ask how many times do you have to change the water for youre green spotted puffer fish?2 of them died I loved then so much *cry*
But 1 is still alive and looks happy but is alone 
Thanks so much have a nice day 
Bye
Keith Lehman said
Adri:
I think you should read the article as well as the previous comments/questions. I can’t help you with so little information …
For example – what size is your aquarium? What filtrations system? How many GPs are in your tank? et cetera.
Adri said
Yeah well thanks anyways I dont know much about these fish all of them died :’( But I got 2 hermat crabs…and I wasent saying little information.I love animal’s so much its hard to lose a best friend.I had 3 fish and they had 1 gallon they were small Bye
Keith Lehman said
Adri:
Your fish died from lack of oxygen – your tank was way too small, especially with as many fish you had. The rule of thumb is average freshwater fish size: one per gallon, in the case of green puffers: one per two gallons. The snails can live in even a small puddle because their breathing (oxygen) requirements are different than fish. Personally I have found that snails will over multiply and often the young snails will get caught up and clog the filtration system.
And that was another problem: you had a one gallon tank with no filtration system. Changing water constantly is okay for the common goldfish, but not tropicals, and especially marine tank fish.
Best thing to do is go down to the library and read up about aquariums written by professional aquarists. Make a plan as to what kind of tank you want to set up and don’t plan on a tank smaller than 20 gallons. Ensure that the filtration system is efficient for the set up, and before purchasing fish have the water in and aged with filtration for a week or so and the environment is ready to receive your chosen fish.
The preparation is normally the most work and after that with a little daily and weekly maintenance you can enjoy your aquatic friends and watch them with interest.
Adri said
Thanks but I might get thse fish when I will have all these things.But if they are still small they still cant have a 1 gallon tank?Well im still sad that my fish died.But thanks for helping me and ill by a bigger tank next time.Have a good day.Bye
Tommy said
HI!!
Im new to the GSP and my fish are so cool!( i named them Tug and Big T)
I dont have brackish water, because i have 4 serpae tetra and 2 cherry barbs, and 2 gsp, and 2 algae eaters.
Can these fish handle brackish waters?
Also, can i feed the puffs regular fish flakes?(tropical)
I need to know these things, me, with the 10 gallon tank, tommy.
P.S: I also want to know why the heck Big T is brown with black spots, but Tug is lighter colered.
P.S.S: I also want to know what to feed the fish.
I got Big T and Tug today, from the Wal-Mart in Chehalais Washington, and i didnt know they had teeth, what do i do about it? wHAT DO I DO ABOUT THE other fish as well?
P.S.S.S: Hi Keith, you are so helpful to the other ppl on this site!
Adios!
Tommy said
Im back, and i was also wondering some thing else.
Do the female puffer fish have anal or caudal fins?
If so then i have 1 female and 1 male.
Is it normal for the WHOLE body to turn flourescent?
Does that mean that they are REALLY happy?
If so, Tug is sooooooooooo happy to be here!
Right now, Tug is sort of attacking the wall with his belly.( kind of like his pacing, but on his tummy.)
Do these fish really come to know who you are?
Do they actually come to the front of the tank to greet you like ive read so much about?
Big T is also kind of sucking his tummy in right now.
Is that normal?
Also, do the puffs usually foght with the Serpae tetra or Cherry Barbs? ( all healthy) I have 10 fish in a 10 gallon tank, but im stuck in the fog here, so cansomeone help me?????
Thanks a million!
Tommy
Darika said
Hello —
Thanks for your great site. I recently got two of these little guys from Wal-Mart. I could see that some in the Wal-Mart aquarium had what looked like Ick, so I picked two that looked fairly clear of it. The smaller of the two I picked had a small white spot on its back and I treated the aquarium water for Ick with the Wal-Mart stuff. However, it’s been getting quite a bit worse and now the little fish has fairly big white spots on its back and they seem to be spreading. I’ve been continually treating the water with the recommended dosage and removing the carbon from the filter as suggested on the directions. The little fish’s (Yvette) side that favors the white spots seems to to swollen now – sort of lopsided. The tummy is dark … is this really Ick or is this something else – like a fungus or something? The big fish (Lulu) has not been showing white spots at all as of yet. Thanks for any suggestions!
—Darika
Keith Lehman said
Darika:
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts …
When the GP’s tummy changes from white to off color – it is either unhappy or ill. (I guess if ill it is unhappy).
I cannot see the fish; therefore I cannot determine or helpfully answer your question. Usually white spots indicate ick. If you have any other fish in the tank, remove the sick ones and put in a “hospital” tank, which I described earlier. If Lulu is not sick, remove Yvette to a hospital tank – a small tank with filter and air stone for extra oxygen and continue treating the sick fish. Clean out uneaten food and waste regularly that the filter doesn’t catch, and of course keep the filter clean. Add the blue liquid for stressed fish, which will help it on the road to wellness. Go down to the library and see what you can find about fish diseases (aquarium fish).
Good luck and hope Yvette gets better.
Keith Lehman said
Tommy:
Brackish water is not required, but they can live in both environments. (See article)
Tropical fish food is enhanced with proper vitamins and nutrients required, however their natural diet is crustaceans. You can purchase dried shrimp as a diet supplement. Whatever be the case, always remove uneaten food to prevent bacterial problems.
If you have ten fish in a ten gallon tank, this should be sufficient. Fish only grow as big as their environment – bigger the tank equals bigger fish, except for some species like guppies that only grow so big and then stop no matter how big the tank is.
As the article states, provide a piece of coral or rocks (aquarium dealer, not from your yard so as not to introduce a problem) and when they feel the need they will gnaw on these and that solves the dental problem.
If the GPs are getting along with the other fish – no problem.
Go to the library and read about GPs and other aquarium fish. I am not knowledgeable about determining sex, but you are on the right track as far as determining by the fins. Guppies are easy to determine, for example. The males have the anal fin and are more colorful and always smaller than the female.
GPs pace, this is what they do. And yes, once familiar with surroundings and your routine they will become friendlier.
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your thoughts …
Darika said
Thank you for the info. I lost Yvette, unfortunately. Pretty bummed. The ick/fungus/whatever it was had even spread over the eye and I did’t have a hospital aquarium to put her in.
I have a few more questions: are live plants necessary for the aquarium? I have one in mine and it seems to be creeping filmy stuff over the rocks so I’d like to take it out if I don’t have to have it. The aquarium has brackish water and runs at 76 degrees.
Are these fish really as emotional as they seem? There are times of the day when Lulu’s tummy is dark and other times when it’s perfectly white. Can the tummy’s color really be affected if they’re hungry? (dark = hungry = mad!) I feed her blood worms in the AM and one dried krill in the PM. Her tummy doesn’t visibly fill up with the blood worms like it does with the krill so perhaps the blood worms aren’t enough food to keep her satisfied for the day … ?
These are such great little fish. I enjoy how they sort of hover with their tiny fins and really do begin to recognize their caretakers. I also appreciate how much time you take to answer people’s questions and concerns – the information from the multitude of exchanges has been more helpful than any other site!
By the way – before I began this message, Lulu’s tummy was quite dark. I fed her a krill and checked on her in the middle of typing and her tummy is back to white. So indeed, perhaps they are that affected by hunger!
Thanks again. —Darika
Tommy said
Thank you so much for the help!
I have fake rocks. (dense)
Will these do for gnawing?
I also have aquarium gravel, and i have extra at hand, so i could MAYBE make a large rock using it.
Would that work?
Tug is flourescent and Big T is too, so they are happy,
and recently Tug seemed to be sucking his tummy in even more.
Is that normal?
I’m sorry for asking so much, but i want them to live!
Big T and Tug thank you too, and Tug isn’t attacking the wall with his belly as much now.
Is it normal for him to do it?
He always paces, but i think this is different.
THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Tommy Bascue
P.s: This site is so awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tommy said
OOPS!! I forgot to mention that tug seems to have a chin-like slit, but Big T doesnt.
Could this maybe be how to tell the difference between sexes?!?!?!?
I hope so!!
Thank you!
Tommy Bascue
Keith Lehman said
Tommy:
I will tell Kritter Girl to read your accolade about her site. She is my wife and I edit and co-write on occasion – my site is at Lighthouse Patriot Journal.
I forgot to mention that varied coloring is normal in GPs.
If you just got these fish – they will change and get more comfortable in their new surroundings.
I already mentioned previously about the “pacing”.
If the GP’s belly is white – it is happy and healthy, but don’t get alarmed if it darkens for a short period (as I stated in the article and comments previously).
Fluorescent coloring is the trademark, so to speak, of these interesting aquatic creatures.
Don’t make a rock out of aquarium gravel – the only way to cement them together would be waterproof glue – and that would poison everything in the tank. Get that at your local aquarium shop or Wal-Mart.
Your welcome.
Keith Lehman said
Darika:
Sorry about Yvette. From your description it appeared that it was too far gone.
Live plants are not necessary. Artificial plants are so real looking and don’t create a waste problem (dead leaves), so many are not introducing live plants in their aquariums.
Run your temperature 74-degrees. The slimy stuff on your rocks is algae. To prevent algae, make sure that debris is cleaned/vacuumed out regularly. Use algae killer (directions on bottle) and use the filter system to distribute it in the water – not directly in water. Also, cut down the amount of time you have the aquarium light on. Regular diffused window light is sufficient. Do not have aquarium too close to a window – this will cause an algae bloom. Diffused lighting is more like their natural environment. Aquarium lights are for people to watch their fish – not for the benefit of fish.
Yes, the tummy color is affected from stress, et cetera. Blood worms and dried krill are just fine.
Thanks, Darika, for your kind words and glad you enjoy the site. Kritter Girl writes about all types of critters with interesting facts – I have learned about things unknown to me before about critters from around the world.
Tommy said
Tug died on 9/11, and it was sad!
I got the shrimp, and Big T seems happier alone.
I woll miss tug!
P.s: Big T is eating ALOT of food now!
valarie said
Hi Keith, its Valarie with the green spotted puffers. I almost lost baby months ago. Wouldn’t eat for over a month. I tried different foods like you suggested and she did start on krill and now seems to be better. My problem: lately I have been finding one or both with stress lines on them and curled on the bottom and on thier sides. Looks like they are having problems. I touch the tank or try to move one and that one will come out of it and start swimming like nothing is wrong. Up to now it has only happened to her but today I find the large healthy fish like this. I panicked, opened the lid and he swam out of the curl. Now I look at both and they are ready for dinner. Is this normal? Sleep mode? Water is perfect, salt, nitrates, nitrites every reading is perfect. Any ideas? Thanks, you always seem to come up with ideas for us.
Valarie
Keith Lehman said
Valerie:
It is difficult to determine without actually examining the fish. GPs often “rest” on the bottom of the tank. Are they swimming to the glass when you approach? Are there any indications of spots or fin rot? When you opened the lid the fish responded – that is good.
It sounds like you are taking good care of your aquatic critters. Don’t panic. Read up on books available at library and have a reference book(s) handy.
Thanks for stopping by … sorry about delay in answering, I am running my own website and I am just a guest writer here (also editor for Kritter Girl) – I apologize for taking so long to respond.
Best Regards …
KAL
ivanna said
are they overpopulated?
Kyla Klein said
Hey..
I have a green spotted puffer…hes about 6-7 months old and i used to have him with 2 grammies and an angel fish…recently the angel fish died from stress she had a bubble like formation on her lips and starved….after than a grammie died an we dont know how it happened over night. After these two incidents i decided to clean the tank througholy to make sure everything was ok….i took out the thermometer inside the tank and it broke in my hands im wondering if it was cracked in the tank and thats why my fish maybe are gettign sick. But now the spotted puffer is only in the tank with 1 grammie and theyve been there for 6-7 months no fighting share food everythings great. But now my puffer is curled up in a ball in the corner and hasnt moved for a day. I went to feed him and he didnt move just sat there. Im wondering whats going on. Please help?
Keith Lehman said
Ivanna: Good question.
The thermometer was most likely the cause of the previous problem. However, it may have been a long-term problem for your little GSP. Use the new style thermometer that sticks to the outside of the glass, for safety reasons, of course. Or the more expensive type that has a probe that inserts in the tank and made of non-breaking metal.
What color is the GSP’s tummy. If the white tummy gets darker than usual or changes colors, temporarily it is a mood thing I haven’t been able to figure out – otherwise he just doesn’t feel good. Periods of time they hang out on the bottom, however.
Not eating is not good, of course.
You got me stumped on this one. I hope GSP owners reading this can help out. Apparently it is not an overpopulation problem, besides he would be more apt to be at the top of the tank gasping for air if it was.
Check out the links in the article I provided and see if the sites there address this problem – and, of course, get a second opinion so to speak.
Hope things turn out well …
KAL
pete said
i have two puffers one just died should i change the water in the tank to save the other one or will he be fine??
Keith Lehman said
Pete:
Did you test the water?
What size is the tank? How many fish per gallon?
What kind of filtration system do you have?
What do you feed the puffers?
How long have you had the puffer.
Suggest you also take a trip to the library or on the Internet, as well.
pete said
10 gallon tank two pufers and a small peacock eel now only one puffer i feed him mysys shrimp and have had for about 2 months
Keith Lehman said
Pete:
Sometimes, no matter what you do, fish die. As far as sick fish, usually you can tell by spots, et cetera. You need to get an aquarist book at the library or purchase one for reference and this will help you out.
Good luck and enjoy your fish.
pete said
white murky water? what causes is and how do you fix it?
Keith Lehman said
Pete:
You didn’t mention the water clarity, that is why I asked about filtration system. But the filtration system cannot work correctly if the filters are not cleaned/replaced regularly and you overfeed fish and have debris on the bottom. You need to change the tank water and with distilled water (cheap and sold by the gallon). You need to have another tank or receptacle to put your fish when you do this and make sure that the water temperature change is not drastic. And since you are replacing the water, it wouldn’t hurt to clean the tank. Do not use soap of any kind, or like someone I know used bleach to clean the aquarium decorative objects, some being stones – and even after rinsing them off with clear water, there was enough bleach remaining in the stones and other porous material to kill off the entire population of fish.
Fish must breathe via water, and what is in it is important. Some fish are more sensitive than others.
When you are through, just keep using distilled water to replace water that evaporates. It is a sure bet, especially if you have city water. Otherwise, “age” the water, but distilled is the best way to go.
Then after you are done cleaning and replacing water and fish (make sure the temp is the same as the tank you get them from) – invest in an aquarium water testing kit to check for nitrate, ammonia and other substances.
Study Aquarium books obtained at the library on loan or the local aquarium shop. First time aquarists should read up before the set up their tank. I always had the filter going and checked everything out before I got new fish for a new aquarium – including “aging” the water for at least one week with the filter system going 24/7.
Sorry you had problems, Pete, but you can correct them and save the rest of your fish.
Good luck …
Keith Lehman said
One More Thing, Pete –
Watch what you put in your tank for decorations. Never take something out of the backyard, et cetera, and place it immediately in your tank. Only use aquarium approved decorations – nothing that is not meant for aquariums. For example, certain products have toxic paint.
Feed you fish only the amount they will eat in one feeding. It is best to have two or three small feedings a day, rather than one large feeding with excess food drifting to the bottom and rotting there – even with catfish.
Hope any of this helps.
Samantha said
ok hi i just got one green spotted puffer and i had him in a 10 gallon tank and he seemed fine but he wouldn’t eat so i went online and saw what he eat and that he need a certain tempreture and so i went out and bought him his own 2 gallon tank because he was with two other fish and they said i probably need to keep him alone and i added salt to the tank and i have a heater and i let the tank cycle for at least 5 days but now he is in his own tank and it looks like his lips are turning blue or peeling off its really strang im scared i like my fish alot.
Keith Lehman said
Samantha:
Observe to see if your GSP has been chewing on something that may be affecting him. Without visually seeing the critter, it is hard to come up with a diagnosis. What breed were the other two fish. Curious as to why the source you checked out would tell you to isolate the GSP. Of course, sometimes they are aggressive to certain breeds and if they see guppies, they gulp them down on sight.
Also, ensure that your salt content is not too much and you introduce it slowly. I assume you are using the aquarium salt recommended for fresh water fish, or are you acclimated them to live in a more briny tank?
Just some thoughts, you have me stumped on this one. It may be some kind of injury. There are chemicals you can add to add the healing. Follow the directions closely. I never introduce anything, even aquarium salt directly to the tank. I introduce it in the water filtration tank and let it circulate through. It will go directly into the tank and yet distribute more evenly. Plus the fish don’t go to the top thinking it is food. In this way I am not giving them direct dosage.
Thanks for commenting and visiting Kritter Korner.
Best to you and your aquatic friends.
Daniel said
I recently purchased 3 GSP. 2 of then seem to be doing alright with the occasional grey tinge on their belly’s. The third one however has completely turned grey and now has a layer of white over the grey and even his eyes. It also seems as one of his fins have become solid and is no longer moving. Any ideas of what this might be? The water is perfect. Its a 35L tank and the 3 GSP share it with two tiger barbs.
Daniel said
The fish i mentioned above has just died. Is there anything i should do to stop this from spreading to the other fish?
Keith Lehman said
Daniel:
Sorry, about your GSP; however, it sounds like some sort of Ich-type disease, which is contagious. It could have contracted while in captivity or maybe during shipment – don’t blame yourself. If you have read the previous comments and even article, much of your answers can be found there.
I always have a “hospital” tank to segregate sick fish/marine life, just in case there is a chance to infect the entire population. That could not only be upsetting, but expensive – especially with marine (saltwater) fish.
Please read the previous comments and article – and by all means, visit the local library/bookstore/pet shop and get a book on the diseases/cures of aquatic creatures – most common.
Rolanda said
I have two puffers in a 20 gallon for about two weeks and there doing great. Well on one of them has spots on it’s back fin and there other one does not is there a a differents in them? I mean is one a different kind of puffer.
Thanks,
Rolanda
Sarah said
I had 2 GSPs for about 3 weeks. One smaller one and one larger one. The Larger one was agressive at first to the smaller one (They were introduced to a fully cycled Tank with a Salinity of .005-.007 with aquarium salt, both are about an inch and were in a 10 gallon tank until I can get my 55 set up) They acted fine for the last 3 weeks and my Larger one started stressing and turning grey. The smaller one was fine but ended up getting sucked in to the filter and I couldn’t save him. Now my larger one refuses to eat. I checked all the perimeters of the tank (Salinity, PH, Ammonia, Filter, temp) everything checked out, and I treated him for Ich the past 3 days. I have tried every kind of food but he doesn’t seem interested. My boyfriend surprised me last night with another puffer and when he was introduced to the tank, the other became white and seems much better. But he still wont eat. I guess my main question is, Is there anyway to really look at their teeth to see if they are too long? I cant see in to his mouth very well, and I am thinking he hasn’t been able to grind his teeth down. Ive gone through the article and read most of the questions, but I haven’t really found the answer I am looking for. Thanks in advance for your help!
Sarah said
I forgot to mention the one that is stressed is all white, with 2 black spots on the very under part of his belly, should I try treating him for another kind of parasite?
Keith Lehman said
Sarah:
These health questions have been challenging indeed. But I stated in earlier comments that a helpful diagnosis, other than general, is not possible from afar. There are aquarist books that have pictures of aquatic critters and their ailments, and what to do. These are available at your local library and/or local pet aquarist shops.
Ick (or “Ich” is the most common, and treatments are available at aquarium supply retail centers.
You certainly did the right thing about the food situation – but what specifically was the food. They eat crustaceans in the wild, thus the reason nature gives them teeth. Their teeth does grow, but not rapidly like, for example, rodents in the animal kingdom. If yo cannot see the teeth protrusion, this is not the problem. Cycle through the comments above to find something pertaining to your problem.
As far as the two dark spots, this may be nothing more than “birth marks” – once again, not there to examine them.
It sounds like you have done many things to keep your aquatic pets healthy and happy. Unfortunately, aquatic creatures arrive with issues, understandable considering the transportation stress they go through. There is a chemical you can add to a tank that reduces stress on fish. Check with the folks you purchased it from, read the books aforementioned – and if you find an answer, post a comment telling me and others here what happened and the found solution. You will do a service to those who enjoy having GSPs.
Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to read and comment. I wish the best for you and your aquatic friends. And, also thank your boyfriend for bringing a companion for your lonely GSP. I have found great results by having at least pairs of each species in tanks, it seems to help them in terms of stress.
Have you tried the recommended dried shrimps and crab meat available? If you decide to try ground fresh crab meat, et cetera – make sure you use sparingly (small amounts more frequently is better than large amounts at one time when feeding) – and be sure to clean up any leftovers (after your bottom feeders are finished feeding). An important factor in maintaining a healthy tank, as it seems you already know.
Best Regards …
KAL
Sarah said
Hi Keith,
Thanks for writing back. My little GSP seems to be doing way better since the other was introduced in to the tank (His little head is florescent green with happiness). Seems like he was just a little sad and lonely. I know the 2 black spots are not birth marks, as his belly was all white when I bought him. I will keep researching his problem and see if I can’t find out what it is. Right now their diet consists of Dried Bloodworms (they wont TOUCH the dried Krill) And Shrimp ice cubes so they have something hard to crunch on. I haven’t found an aquatic store that has snails in my area yet, I’m still on the hunt for those.
Thanks for you help and I will for sure keep you updated!
Sarah
Tara said
My puffer is growing white fungus all over and i put an anti-fungus solution in the tank and he seems to not be getting any better.. any help? i don’t want the little guy to die.
Tommy said
Big T is not doing so well! This is what I consider a fish emergency! Big T has an eye that is glazed white and bulby. He is also hanging out behind a fake plant. He looks like his body is eroding! What do I do?!?! Please respond as quickly as possible!
Tommy said
Big T also has Black spots under his eyes that aren’t the normal spots. They weren’t there yesterday. Big T only eats occasionally now and I am worried about him! S.M.B.T*
*: Save-My-Big-T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
pete said
so Ive had my puffer for a few months and he’s been great, but the past week he stopped eating regulary, i feed him frozen brine shrimp nce a day usually, i but a block in yesterday after i hadnt fed him in a couple days and its still sitting at the bottom untouched… why might he be fasting?
Josh said
We have had 2 GSPs for quite some time (10 months at least). I was a fool and didn’t know about their need for snails or something similar to keep their teeth from growing so large they cannot eat. Fatty, the large one was still able to eat with his big choppers, but Skinny could not. In desperation I took Skinny out and used fingernail clippers to cut his teeth. It wasn’t exactly successful, but I made a big enough gap that he can now eat (he has regained a bit of size since then). So is there any better way, or better tool I can use to clip his teeth with better results?
BOOO HISSS. Something is terribly wrong with Fatty. He has bloated up like a balloon (nearly 3-4 times his previous size) in about 4 days time. What is wrong with him? And can we help? I think it may be too late for Fatty, as the baby mollies have begun to nip at him. But if the same happens to skinny, I would like to be prepared. Could this have anything to do with the snails I fed them? Is it possible that with such big teeth he was unable to chew the snail up properly, swallowed it nearly whole, and gotten “blocked up” or something? Please any light you may be able to shine on the subject would be appreciated.
Keith Lehman said
Josh:
If you can find them, try to get a pair of dental snippers, or a small pair of diagonal snipping pliers may help – but the key thing is not letting it get that far.
As far as snails, you are better off without them. When they multiply the tiny ones clog up your filtration system. If you are going to feed food other than prepared from pet shop or local store with pet center, try plain (not smoked or otherwise treated) canned crab, oysters, etc. It will provide them the protein they are used to. Have a bottom feeder in the tank, and don’t overfeed.
As far as the teeth, they will normally chew on rocks or coral; however, only get the ones from the pet center because you may introduce something not good if you get from natural surroundings – and the ones at pet shops won’t harm them. They sell real and artificial coral, which is decorative and they will gnaw on those. Trimming their teeth is tricky business.
I hope this has helped.
KAL
Maybe your GSP has just overeaten? Don’t know for sure without examining him personally.
Evan said
my green spotted puffer turned grey alot. i know that has to do with stress in all. but i dont know. his tail constantly stays closed instead of faned out.
:(
he lays at the buttom of the tank alot… mostly beside this log we have in there. he has a friend that is also a green spotted puffer. but they seem to get along well.
ive heard that if they turn tooo black/grayish then that means they could have pneumonia.
i dont know…
Keith Lehman said
Evan:
In order for any creature to get pneumonia, they need lungs. GSP’s breath through the gill system like all fish, except those that are mammalian, like porpoises. I don’t know where you heard that from, but you need to check into the library and read up on books available there. The Internet is an excellent source to find books like “How To” for aquarists and books on general fish ailments, as well as books on specific species.
Sometimes puffers like to hand out on the bottom and curl their tails – haven’t found out exactly why yet. These fish are fairly new on the scene, but as you can see as to the availability in recent times, they have become popular.
Go to your nearest pet store or pet center at a Wal-mart or whatever and purchase a box of aquarium salt. Not the kind of salt used to create a saltwater tank, but the kind that is in a container that looks like a milk carton. Ask the clerk. Follow the directions and introduce it into your tank (not directly, although it really would hurt them) through your filtration system – teaspoon or whatever the directions say for your tank size. Incredibly, this aquarium salt is good for fresh water fish as well, providing a nutrient that is good for them. In the case of the GP, this fish can be found in brackish or non-brackish waters. I have read that some people have slowly introduced sea salt, time enough for them to adapt and that way they could be included in an aquarist’s saltwater tank. Of course, then the question would be which fish they would get along with as far as marine fish go. But then if the marine fish is as large or larger than the GP – well there usually isn’t a problem.
And, most of all make sure your filters in the filtration system is clean, as well as cleaning up debris from the bottom religiously – this prevents bacterial problems that cause your fish to get ill. Filtration is important. Food and waste left in a tank too long also produces nutrients that pollute.
Troy said
Hi there i hope you can help me. We have a green spotted puffer thats been in our community tank for over 8 months. Once in a while Spotsos white belly would turn dark grey and sometimes even black, but almost as fast as it happens it also turns back too white. Yesterday he was fine always getting along with the other fish which include angels, tetras a couple of bala sharks a boita a grammie and even a beta amongs a few others. He eats fine and seams really happy. This morning he was very still and Spotso turned completely black, we seperated him in a breeder tank and it seams he just wants too roll over. i know that they turn color because of stress but never has he went all black and lifeless is there something we can do? like i said it just happened over nite. I did do a water change but nothing out of the norm. all the other fish are a ok, levels are all good or at least the same as they have always been. i di use softened water but still used the drops, please if you have any info it would be greatly appreciated as my 8 and 10 year old girls are so upset.
Thanx in advance
Troy
Keith Lehman said
Troy:
Thanks for dropping by and visiting Kritter Korner and sharing your experiences …
It amazes me in a way, but in another I find the intrigue with the wonderful creatures we call GSP, however, being aquatic creatures they are not like dogs, cats, et cetera.
Is Spotso the only GSP in the tank? I have found that fish do better when in groups of their own kind. When I purchase a breed, I at least get two to add to my aquatic world. They seem to last longer. There is a bonus in doing this. For example, clown fish: they move together in perfect harmony. So in effect, you are creating a miniature reef. Different breeds tend to stabilize at different levels, and if you plan ahead, you have top swimmers, middle swimmers and bottom feeders. Thus a tank is harmonized.
Water changing does not have to happen frequently – good filtration and tank cleaning is the way to go. This is why it is recommended to “age” the tank water before introducing aquatic critters in a new tank. The norm is at least 72 hours of aging with full filtration going.
Your tank critters sound intriguing, but wonder with the aggressiveness of angel fish that they are good tank partners.
I am sorry that your girls are upset, but unfortunately, no matter how you perform as an aquarists, there are casualties.
Your isolation of what I call a “hospital” tank, is the way to go sometimes, especially when signs of disease appear. But Spotso, may just be lonely for his own kind.
Based on the information, that is all the info I can provide.
The GSP is a little extra work in its care, but they are such delightful creatures, I feel they are worth it.
Aquarium salt I mentioned to Eva in the last comment is good thing for all your critters – “grammie”, beta (hopefully a female), angels tetras and bala sharks.
I hope this provides some help. Read as much as you can about aquariums and critters. The library is a cheap source, and then there is so much out there on the Internet (Amazon) on books concerning this issue. Aquariums, I feel are worth any work – they provide a pleasant view and actually provide a calm effect when viewing. I will have to take time from Lighthouse Patriot Journal to provide more information on the wonderful world of aquariums.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting, on behalf of Kritter Girl who is the author/publisher of this blog, me being the editor and the one who has aquarist experience.
Keep in touch …
KAL
Kayla said
I need help with my green spotted puffer fish. lately they have been going to the bottom of the tank, and turning a grayish green color, losing their spots. but then when icome up to the tank, they get all green again and come to the side of the tank and look at me. what can be causing this. is it normal. or what. ive had them for almost 2 months now and its the first time ive noticed it. they are the only 2 fish in the tank, and its a pretty big tank.
Keith Lehman said
Kayla:
Apparently the little creatures enjoy your company. Provide them with a good diet and company from time, and see if this behavior changes. Often they will sit on the bottom, so this is not unusual behavior.
Also provide some natural surroundings, sometimes that helps – add plants, rock structure – but make sure they are made to be used for aquariums.
Hope this helps.
Keith Lehman said
Kayla:
As the article states the GSP is friendly. They have gotten used to your presence and expect to see you now and then. One wonders what is seen through their eyes when looking at us.
Aren’t they just delightful aquatic critters?
Since you have all that space, put in some natural surroundings for them – this seems to extend their life, as well as other aquatic critters. You can plant live plants or artifical. You can introduce some coral formations, a cave structure or other things found at local pet or aquarist shop.
Have fun with your GSPs.
david said
Hello,
I just picked up 2 GSP over the weekend and I’m a bit concerned about their living conditions and health. Apparently, the GSP’s are known as aggressive guys and the smaller GSP of the two is quite the bully. The little one is always nipping and/or chasing the bigger one around.
back to the concerns, I learned this past weekend that my 5 gallon starter tank is too small for the GSPs. I’m thinking of getting a big tank eventually, not I just picked up the hobby and I’d like to give it a little times before I jump to spending $$$ on a bigger setup. My question: how much will my 5 gallon tank impact the lives of the GSP? I understand that eventually I will need to get a bigger tank as they get bigger but it is THAT crucial for the juvenile stages? How long can I wait until I get a bigger tank.
Another concern of mine is that the bigger GSP is not really swimming all that often, he is usually lounging on the bottom of the tank or hovering at the top of the tank. He has little movement and I noticed his color gets really dull at times. Overall, my other GSP looks far healthier than the one that looks “sick.”
I really like these guys and I hope I can take good care of them, but as you know, I’m new to this and would like some advice and guidance.
Thanks!
David
Keith Lehman said
David:
Your GSPs will do okay in the five gallon (since they are the only ones in it) until you can get the dream aquarium of your choosing. Save your money and get a 50 gallon, if there is space where you live. You could even gradually change the salt content of the water and turn the 50-gallon into a marine aquarium. In the meantime, visit the library or invest in some aquarium books and learn more.
GSPs sometimes like to “chill out” at the bottom of the tank. If they look healthy and their bellies remain white most of the time – he will be okay. The color changing is common with these critters and I wouldn’t stress upon it unless signs of illness appear.
Thanks for stopping by and apologize for being away for so long.
Sarah said
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing all of your incredible information… I bought 2 GSP’s last week and I really had no idea there were so many people as passionate about this particular fish as I AM!! I’m pretty sure from reading all these posts that it’s covered just about any questions that I”VE had about them so.. yea… THANKS!!!!
Keith Lehman said
Sarah:
Welcome …
They are amazing critters aren’t they? The local Wal-Mart sells them and has been doing so for at least one year and they have become one of the most popular.
Your welcome. Keep us posted.
Cameron said
I noticed that white flecks were sort of peeling off my young puffer (freshwater) and I started to get worried. I thought it might be fin-rot but I wanted to make sure.
Jennelle said
Hey.. iam new to this whole web site, but found it over the internet…my puffer fish has been acting realy weird latley…His name is Twitchy but right now he isn’t realy living up to it!! I love puffers..they are so funny and immotional..they all have diffrent personalities..but my puffer is lossing it’s color and turning a grayish!! I can’t figure out what’s wrong!! He’s always just floating around the tank!! Help!! I CANT just sit and watch him lay around like this…i think he’s realy sick..i love that little guy- I don’t know what i would d without him!!!!!!!
Keith Lehman said
Jennelle:
Cameron gave good advice, sorry for delay in response. I only write articles here as a guest for Kritter Girl, which she asked because of my experience with aquatic critters – and I got tied up with my own blog endeavor. So again, thanks to Cameron. This is an interactive website, so suggestions and information are always welcome here.
I hope Twitchy is okay, drop a line and let us know.
Cameron said
It probably has Fin-Rot. I would suggest purchasing one of the following.
1)Tetracycline
2)Oxytetracycline
3)Chloramphenical
I would suggest buying one of these as soon as possible. Fin-Rot was the cause of my puffer’s death=(
Good luck Twitchy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keith Lehman said
Cameron:
Thanks for the good advice. I don’t like to guess at what problems are – but I believe you are correct. I know what fin-rot looks like and what to do. Just purchasing the fin-rot remedy at local store will do the trick.
Fin-rot is sometimes brought in when purchasing new fish, that is why I have always put new fish in a “hospital” tank (5-gallons) complete with anti-stress solution to put them in quarantine.
Anthony said
hello,
i just recently purchased a GSP and everything is fine. i love him. he is awesome. amazing personality. but my question is that i know i have to buy snails so his tooth wont get too big. but will meal worms do the same thing as the snails? since their somewhat crunchy?
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
I would highly suggest not to purchase live snails. I have found snails are more bothersome than they are helpful. For one, when the young are hatched they are very small and get into the filtering system and mess it up. Another is that they multiply like crazy! Of course, the latter might not be a problem if the GSP eats them. Pet shops are not usually selling snails anymore because of the reason mentioned, or so I have been told.
The tooth problem doesn’t happen quickly, as say mammal rodents. Experts that have raised the GSP warn about them and those that have coral to nibble on don’t seem to be a problem. So don’t get snails for that reason. Crustaceans are part of the GSP diet in the wild – crayfish, crabs, snails, et cetera. If you want to give them a special treat, get some fresh clams and mince it up for a meal now and then – but remember that you must clean up leftovers uneaten – by the GSP and any bottom feeders you have. One of the reasons why I enjoy marine tanks over fresh water is that crabs and other such creatures are great house (aquarium) cleaners – like a built-in maid. However, if you acclimatized the GSP to live in a marine environment, they would eat those cleaners.
Special Note to Cameron: I apologize for being so late in replying to your comment(s) – I am editor for Kritter Korner, as well as Venting Volcano (a guest writer here) and publishing my own website as well as writing occasionally for other literary entities. I guess sometimes, when including personal life, I just burn up. Thanks, Cameron for your help on the fin-rot problem.
Anthony said
hello.
i was wondering if meal worms wear down the tooth also since they are somewhat crunchy. i havent found a petshop that sells snails yet
Sarah said
Quick question if I may…
I read somewhere on the internet in passing that there could be a problem if your fish has stringy poo… is this the case with GSPs? It sometimes looks like a hair that’s strung through little balls of poo…sorry if that was a little too graphic
One last thing… I’ve added lots of things to my tank (plants, holey rocks, stuctures, etc) and it’s seemed to help with the “pacing” with my lil GSP however my big guy still can’t seem to do ANYTHING else… it’s making me feel guilty like he just NEEDS OUT! Is there anything else I could try that may satisfy him??
I LOVE THIS SITE! THANKS AGAIN FOR DOING THIS!!
Anthony said
thanks for the reply. and if i dont have coral and since snails are not recommended will meal worms get the job done with the tooth issue? and are meal worms recommended food for GSP?
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
Coral can be obtained at local pet/aquarist shop.
Meal worms are fine, they won’t do anything for the teeth, but if they like it, it is good protein for them.
Keith Lehman said
Sarah:
Glad you like Kritter Girl’s site.
As far as stringy excrement – never heard such a thing and the many long years having aquatic critters – this is normal.
Maybe the GSP needs more time to get used to his/her surroundings.
Thanks for your participation and stopping by for a visit.
Anthony said
hi keith. me again. i think something is wrong with my lil puffer. he doesnt swim anymore. he just stays at the bottom of the tank. but when he does swim it seems as if hes like. having an out of body experience or something. he swims good but he just like bumps into things? and he didnt eat this morning. i had 2 GSP but one just recently died for unknown reasons. is there a problem or is he lonely? any help is greatly appreciated
Anthony said
ive had him for about three weeks now. and everything was fine. up until about 2 days ago. he just started acting weird. he doesnt even greet me when its feeding time either. his tank mates are 2 convict cichleds, 2 texas cichleds, and another fish that i dont kno the name of. they were excellent tank mates. they never harrassed my lil puffer and my puffer never messed with them. please help me. i really like the little guy
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
Get another partner for GSP (another GSP).
Check to see if he has fin rot or any signs of disease. I am surprised that Cichlids are doing well with GSP because that specie is known for its aggression. But if it is working, cool.
How large is your tank?
Sarah said
OK.. here’s another one for ya… I tried to add two quarter inch sized balloon mollies to the tank with my two inch long puffers… this is day three and the puffers are still in hiding… even when they DO come out, they mostly just lay around without even fluttering their fins! and I know the color changing is normal but they have been bright and beautiful since I bought them and now they are dull and grey… the mollies seem to be on the aggresive side but I figured after a couple days maybe they’d get used to eachother… this does not seem to be the case… THE MOLLIES HAVE TAKEN OVER! I feel terrible for my little guys… do you think they are so stressed out that I should remove the mollies from the tank?? How will I know if they are TOO stressed?
Anthony said
ya im suprised that they turned out to be good tank mates too. they dont really mess with my puffer at all. and its a 35 gallon tank
Anthony said
can you please give me some signs of fin rot? and other common diseases? because hes swimming around now but hes not eating. nothing.
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
As the name applies – the fins rot. Previous comment recommends treatment.
anthony said
1)Tetracycline
2)Oxytetracycline
3)Chloramphenical
so pick one out of these 3? which one is the most recommended? and would this really cause him to not eat? he just looks at the food but doesnt eat. im giving him flake and blood worms
Keith Lehman said
Anthony:
Fin-rot, if identified as so can be addressed with medications sold at pet stores, to make the choice easier for you.
valarie said
Hi, this is Valarie. I have had these two gsp for two years or so. Maybe you remember me, I almost lost “baby” a few years ago. My problem is stil the same. I find them balled on the bottom. Looks like they are sick and dying, move close to them and they “wake”up. Charlie has been doing this more and more. Both eating fantastic, blood worms, water perfect, 50 gals of volcanic rock with caves and hiding spots. Other than this “balling” on the bottom they seem to be happy. Do they go to sleep? Is this a sign of some thing? Today I have found both on the bottom like this?
Ashley said
Hi,
My boyfriend and I recently purchased a GSP. I read through some of the comments above and this might seem repetitive but I thought I should just ask for myself. First of all, our tank is 10 gallons, we put 2 tablespoons of aquarium salt in and let the tank run for 2 days before adding our GSP (he’s about 1 inch). The tank temp is about 73-75 degrees. We also put 5 ghost shrimp in so they could help clean the tank before they get eaten (hopefully). Anyway, our GSP seems to be afraid of the ghost shrimp.. they actually swim up to him but he swims away from them. Sometimes i’ll see him just sitting next to them and staring, but not trying to eat them or anything. I’m not entirely sure when he last ate since we just got him today, but is it possible for him to just not like ghost shrimp? Also, we put about 4 frozen dried bloodworm flakes in, and he didn’t touch those either. If I have the light on, he will swim up and down the side of the tank, sometimes against the back of it too, but if they light is off, he sits in the back, middle of the tank with his tail curled.. not swimming around. Is this normal? Should I keep the light off? Oh, and we have a plant background on the tank, it might sound dumb, but he looks confused.. like he keeps trying to swim into the plants. We do have a plastic plant and 2 rocks in the tank for him to hide in… I read that curling the tail can sometimes mean they’re sick, uncomfortable or just doing it to swim easier.. I guess I just want to make sure I don’t kill the little guy. Before we got him, we did a lot of research and tried to cycle our tank to make sure he didn’t die.. any ideas on what I should do? Thanks a lot!
Jon said
Ashley,
flake food is not really a keen favourite of puffers. you are best to put a few snails in every couple of days. just ask at your local fish shop. they should be able to give you a load of “pest” snails. these are the little cone shaped fellas that come in with the plants and breed like fuck. the shop workers will usually give them to you for free just to get rid of them. other than snails, prawn is a great meaty food to give them. just the normal packs of prawn you see in the seafood aisle in asda will see them right. they love most meaty seafood so experiment with your puffer and see what he likes.
i have noticed that my puffers use the top and bottom fins to swim and the tail to steer most of the time. a curled tail does not mean illness, it does actually make turning in the water a lot easier.
on the not moving side of things, he is in a new environment and it will take a couple of days for him to get used to being in his new home. im sure that by the time you read this he will have settled in nicely and will be a focal point of your day.
you will also need a new tank quite soon, especially if you want to add some company.
Thaddeus said
I have had 4 puffers for a while now and noticed that two of them seem to have cloudy eyes, their top fins are deteriorating, and near the lower back the skin looks brownish red and wrinkly. They do have the florescent yellow to the top of their heads, and their stomachs are mostly white. I don’t know what this could be but i would like to get it fixed before they die. I just separated them from their main environment with an air supply to see if they make it through the night. Can anyone give me some help?
Jon said
if anyone is looking for suitable tankmates for GSPs then i would suggest the following.
Oscar (belive it or not). i have found that a single GSP lives quite happily with an oscar. if you wish to try this then i would reccomend an oscar that is roughly 1 and a half times the size of your GSP. any larger and the oscar will bully the GSP.
Convicts. rowdy buggers but great if given the space they need.
Jack Dempseys. NOT BLUES!!!! electric blue dempseys are just too timid. regular dempseys have the perfect level of aggression to put up with the puffers.
Serpae Tetra. my GSPs take no interest in the tetras, they will occasionally circle each other but soon disband.
Pleco. no fish will generally bother with any type of bottom dweller. currently i have a pair of plecos (1 common, 1 l046), 1 farowalla catfish, 4 corydoras and 1 paroon shark which all co exist perfectly.
this is just a short list of some of the fish i have tried with my GSPs
Some fish to avoid at all costs are:
snakehead
arowana
piranha
These fish will obviously make a meal of your puffer. any fish that can fit the puffer in its mouth will certainly have a go at chomping them down. i have listed these fish because you could stand to lose a lot of money should they try to devour a GSP. Some puffers have a toxin in the flesh whick can kill other fish if they ingest the poison. not to mention the barba on the skin of the GSP when they puff, this could easily choke a fish of considerable size.
Puffers are great fish to own and they have more personality than any other fish i have ever owned.
Happy puffing
Mary said
Hi I just recently obtained 2 green spotted pufferfish, I have only had them a few days so I wasn’t sure how to set up the tank. For now I have them both in a small 5 gallon tank but will soon be upgrading to a 20 gallon, i also have rocks, a fake plant, and a small colum for play and a oygen bubbler. Today I came home at 11 pm and the bubbles had been offer for a few hours and I noticed my puffers not swimming, not breathing, just floating at the top. I was scared so I gently touched one with my finger and it began to move slightly then stopeed. The other one did the same. What is wrong with them? Are they dying? Tomorrow I’m getting a filter, a 20 gallon tank, and other thing I read on this site to get, but is it too late? I love my little puffers and I just want that little green spot on their heads to GLOW…
Keith Lehman said
Mary:
When you set up your new tank – 20-gallon, do this before putting any fish in it:
(1) age the water for at least 72 hours by running the filter system. Just having bubbling devices don’t get it.
(2) Best to put distilled water in the tank, but if you have a home water filtration system, not necessary.
(3) When you introduce the fish, let the fish float in the carry bag for about one hour and then open the bag and release them.
(4) Inspect the fish before purchasing to make sure they are okay.
(5) Often fish are stressed from the traveling, so it wouldn’t hurt to put a prescribed amount of Blue Shock, ask the dealer you purchased them from.
Other information, as you stated is in the article and some of the commentary at this article. Most likely your puffers are dying. Save the five gallon (put a small filter system in it) for a “hospital” tank, like I mentioned. You can just keep the filter running and the water will be oxygenated and clean, ready for a sick fish. Keep the temperature the same as the main tank. This segregates sick fish from the rest so whatever it has doesn’t spread. I always suggest to people not to get less than a 20-gallon tank for keeping fish.
Good luck and have fun with your puffers and other fish you may purchase.
Mary said
I had one more question to ask you. Now that i have a happy puffer, my only concern is his teeth. How fast do their teeth grow and how often should i feed him snails to trim his teeth?
Jean said
Hiya, I’ve just bought a green spotted puffer. Length about 1 inch. He’s in a tank with 2 yabby lobsters, several goat fish, neon tetras and guppies, and one bumblebee goby.
Oh, and lots and lots of cherry shrimp.
When he was first placed into the tank, he ate a baby cherry shrimp and then started tailing the guppy tails.
He leaves the goat fish and the bumblebee goby alone, and the neon tetras are too fast for him
Is he attracted by the red tails of the guppies? I notice he is very keen on the cherry shrimp, and when I chuck some bloodworms in, he comes swimming by so fast, like a spotted green torpedo, it makes us all laugh.
My main concern now is whether he will survive. I’ve seen him a couple of mornings lying curled up on the bottom of the tank, and I worry about the yabby lobsters making a meal of him.
Any advice on where he can have a safe resting platform on which to take a nap?
Keith Lehman said
Jean:
When purchasing fish for a community tank – always research to see what fish are aggressive and which are compatible. Crustaceans, crayfish and so on, will devour anything it can get its claws on.
Guppies are usually food to the GSP – I am surprised they survived. Curling up on the bottom once in a while is a standard behavior. The best way to determine (read article and previous comments) is their belly color – if it darkens they aren’t feeling well.
I don’t know how big your tank is, but you could create a series of grottoes (caves) and a rock shelf. If you do not purchase these at local pet shop make sure that anything you take from the wild or natural place is clean – do not clean with soap or bleach! Rock despite its strength is porous and bleach/soap will leach out in your water and kill everything in your tank.
Good luck and have fun.
Nathan said
Hi, i decided to start keeping fish. I have had one tank before but it was only a 5 gallon. Right now I have a 29 gallon tank ready to be filled with decor and plants. I saw some videos on youtube about green spotted puffers and thought they looked awesome. I wanted a fish with personality and one that would recognize me and be fun to watch. I research the green spotted puffer and it is what i want. Just have a couple questions. What salt should i use? Marine salt or I have API aquarium salt. At what age do I start to use this? What are the benefit of either saltwater of freshwater? Would 2 green spotted puffers work in my tank? What other fish that are beneficial to the tank by cleaning it would be compatible?
Keith Lehman said
Nathan:
I guess one could say you are hooked on the puffer!
First, I suggest to go to the library and read all you can about marine (saltwater) aquariums. The equipment can be a bit costly, but to me it is worth the cost. Spend a bit more and get the bio-wheel filtration system. If you have decided to go marine, study the various type of marine fish, some are sensitive to salt density fluctuations. Remember that salt water evaporates more quickly than fresh water and salt deposits will form from this condensation process making it a bit more time-consuming than fresh water tank maintenance.
If you decide to have your puffers change to brackish water, do it slowly. You will need a thermometer looking device that floats in the water that provides salt density readings for marine aquariums. Check with your local reputable dealer and inquire about choice of brand/type of marine salt.
Salt water fish are not as costly today as when I started out more than 30 years ago when marine fish were normally hand caught in the reefs. Today they are bred and raised and thus the cost is less. Like I stated, the equipment is where the endeavor becomes costly.
The benefits of marine fish versus freshwater fish is that marine fish are more varied, and to me more interesting. You can balance your tank out with crustaceans, some very interesting ones like the Arrow Crab. Stick to small species or you will find some fish missing, but not too small where your puffers might dine on them. Then there are the anemones, beautiful animals that look like plants, and, of course live coral that you can express ship in different sizes to your home.
It is recommended that a 50-gallon tank be the minimum size for marine life; however, you can downsize your mini-reef in a 29-gallon tank.
Crustaceans, by the way, are excellent tank cleaners – eating practically 24 hours per day. Some species, like the Hermit crab, require shells of various sizes they can change into as they grow. You can have a starfish in the tank; however, it will devour your live coral if you have it in your tank.
Study on this subject and decide what is best for you.
Have fun and good luck.